The Adventures of Camelot

Over to facebook

2010-02-16T09:40:00.000-08:00

Now time to leave the travel blog, for more updates on us "trying to be normal" see Facebook Neil Michell.

"Farewell and thanks for all the fish"

(Hitchhikers guide to the Galaxy)

Merry Christmas from Auckland

2009-12-26T12:14:00.000-08:00

Jacque, Chloe, Ivan, Neil & Cheryl "Farewell to freedom, back to work" party on board Camelot.

Christmas parade Auckland

Santa, downtown Auckland.

Megan, Brian, John & Annette..... lovely friends in Warkworth NZ

Dock on right, marina walkway, on left, Ferry to Auckland.......easy peasy!

View of our marina from the road behind us shows marina and Auckland across the water.

Fiona, Rory, Arend & Isobel,( living in Auckland) family of our very good friends Tessa & John in San Francisco

Merry Christmas and happy New year.

It's all go here, new country, new jobs lots of new things to do & find out.

Have not taken the boat out for a sail around yet, its too busy with all the Kiwi's out & about in their boats enjoying the Christmas holidays.

Everyday here at the marina, the locals pour down the docks with huge cartloads of food & booze to take out on their trips.

We'll wait until the big rush is over. There are quite a few islands to visit just off the coast, some have small towns and wineries on, others nice hikes and cycle routes.

Boatyard blues..........

2009-12-07T17:33:00.000-08:00

Yes we've got the boatyard blues.

We are high & dry "on the hard" as us boaters call being out of the water.

We are in a town called Warkworth about 30 miles north of Auckland. The yard is way up the Mahurangi river.

Usually we don't mind being in the yard, but this time we had torrential rain holding up progress initially, and now as of today one of the top painters on the crew ( Jackie ) is incapacitated and can't go near the paint.

Had an allergic reaction to all the toxic stuff in the yard, so had to be invalided out to a beautiful local bed & breakfast!!

(Yes I spent hours during the night punching myself in the eyes to make them swell up, the wheezing and tongue swelling took a little more ingenuity to pull off!)

Seriously Neil is having to finish off the painting on his own, which is hard work, but I did book a room with a huge bath so he can soak his aching muscles.

Back in the water soon, hopefully I can stand the fumes for the time it takes to relaunch the boat.

Off to our new home ........Bayswater marina, and starting work Monday Dec 14th.

DEJA VU!!!

2009-11-24T23:32:00.000-08:00

Cetacea with Old and new owners.

Cetacea with old and new owners.

Captain of the Land yacht.

Had the shock of our lives last Sunday, went to check out our new marina in Bayswater (opposite the city) and look who we found lurking in the slips...........CETACEA!!!

Cetacea was the first boat we owned . We bought her, and sailed her through the Bahamas and Caribbean, then we sold her in Florida in 2003, and now she's HERE!.

Of all the harbours in all the world, we found her here!

Now just have to keep an eye open for Voyager ( our second boat) and the "family" will be reunited.

Here are Brian and Clare Cetacea's new owners, they sailed her from Florida a few years ago, they added a wind steering vane and radar, and set off

We had fun telling them the stories behind each scratch and scuff ..........and there are plenty of stories!

They also added baby Quinn, so they are staying here for now.

The last photo is of our new "land Yacht" a Toyota Camry we bought the other day..........really makes a difference having a car,

no more rationing shopping etc on the grounds of not being able to carry the weight on the bike, also enjoying getting reacquainted with Auckland and surrounding area.

Auckland at last.

2009-11-16T10:59:00.000-08:00

Bay of island Oysters served by a couple of "pearls".

Bay of islands.

Whangarei marina on the river.

Peacock, and very plain Peahen Kawau island.

Peacock Mansion house bay Kawau island.

Wallaby Kawau island.

Old Coppermine Kawau island.

Catch of the day.....Kawau island.

Sauntered into Auckland harbour yesterday after a run down from Kawau island.

It's all business now, rushing around getting work visas, car etc etc.

Opua New Zealand

2009-11-05T12:06:00.000-08:00

Bay of Islands New Zealand.

"Anzac" the customs dog.

Boarded by customs offshore.

They ask permission, but I wouldn't like to say no!

Squall alert!!!

Norfolk island.

Dock party, cruisers and locals Norfolk island.

Norfolk island........notice red and blue parrot in foreground.

Cascade bay Norfolk island.......sailors you can see why it can get rolly in here.

Trying to download important documents via wifi in bright sunlight!

Isle of Pines New Caledonia.

Highest point, Isle of Pines New Caledonia.

Kuta Bay Isle of Pines New Caledonia.

Relaxing in Opua marina and watching the daily arrivals from the rest of the South Pacific, at least 5-6 boats daily chug in for clearance.

Of course we are having to celebrate with all our old friends as they roll up, its a terrible trial !

In between boat cleaning and celebrating we've been busy hiking and cycling.

The weather has been lovely so far, sunny & settled.........it won't last, a front is forecast and we hope the boats heading in from Fiji will make it in port before the big blow.

On Monday we start the work visa process, and have to go to Whangarei and Auckland to submit paperwork, we'll hire a car or buy one to do this, so the partying will be over !!

Are We There Yet? Are We There Yet?......04/11/09

2009-11-04T11:41:00.000-08:00

Yes we bloody are!!!!
Arrived in Opua New Zealand this morning, November 4th.
Our weather was good for the trip, so we consider ourselves lucky.
Some other boats are still out there and the storm is on its way. We're tucked up nice and cozy in the Marina.
Later on we'll crack the champagne and start reminiscing about the 12,468 nautical miles we've done.

Land Ahoy...........(02/11/09)

2009-11-03T01:25:00.000-08:00

Position 33 degrees, 39S, 172 degrees, 08E.
We can just see Three Kings Island off the starboard bow!!!
67 miles to North Cape, then another 80, travelling down the east coast to Opua. Should arrive in Opua sometime on November 4th.
Windlight from west, cloudy but no squalls yet!!
Fingers crossed for good weather to continue.

Brrrrrr getting cold (01/11/09)

2009-11-02T01:21:00.000-08:00

Position 32 degrees 23S / 169 degrees 48E
Its getting chilly down here in the old Tasman sea. Our depth sounder has a thermometer built in and its reading 17 degrees C, down from 26 degrees C in the Isle of Pines, which was the last time we were in the water doing a last minute cleaning of the boat bottom.
But let me mention a particularly nice boating pastime related to colder weather..........hot bunking, yes hot bunking is a lovely thing. When we change over watches one of us climbs out from under a heap of quilts and blankets whilst the other dives under the warm inviting mound and wriggles into place in the warm bunk, ecstasy!
Anyway still mooching south slowly; all the weathermen say we'll get south westerly winds soon. We keep searching around for them, but no luck yet. A nice SW breeze would be just the ticket for the last couple of hundred miles, so fingers crossed. At present we are sailing in light southerlies - its like clawing your way up hill, whilst looking over your shoulder watching for squalls and storms creeping up to give us a whack. Speed is everything on this passage, there is a low pressure system (nasty big winds and waves) slowly moving our way, and we hope to outrun it and breeze into harbour with it firmly behind us, here's hoping.
The good news - the Kiwi sailors tell us "no worries" from now to NZ we are in range of the NZ search and rescue helicopter, and can be plucked off our sinking vessels. Don't fancy dangling on one of those helicopter cables!! Definitely keep that as plan B.

First Day out from Norfolk Island (31/10/09)

2009-10-31T14:52:00.000-07:00

All is well, dodging squalls all night, so kept busy.
There are a few of us out here, which makes a change. We can hear chatter on the radio, so we know our sailing pals are close by.

Tally Ho and its over the top (30/10/09)

2009-10-31T14:47:00.000-07:00

We're looking down the barrel at the last lap - we've got New Zealand in our sights, we're syked up and ready for the big push.
Its almost full moon so we'll have some light so we can keep an eye out for the "enemy" - squalls and storms.
Got the champagne on board - won't need to put it in the fridge. By the time we pull into Opua we'll be able to pull the icicles off our faces and toss them in the glass with the bubbly.

Norfolk Island

2009-10-30T01:03:00.000-07:00

Had a lovely dock party last night, lots of locals turned up to chat.
Hiked around the bay in the afternoon, saw lots of blue parrots with red backs, so colourful, and so many of them. There are a lot of dolphins too, and some whales.

Waiting at Norfolk Island (27/10/09)

2009-10-28T10:25:00.000-07:00

Still waiting for the weather to settle down south of us. We're all starting to have a nice time as well. We're taking it in turns to go into town, so someone can watch the boats for dragging anchors. We're having a little dock party this evening with the man who has lent us the car, and some of the other local people, so that should be interesting.
This afternoon we're going hiking around the bay, get some exercise and keep an eye on the boat. The weather here is actually very pleasant, its sunny and cool with clear skies. We had some rain overnight which was one of the fronts passing through, We are just getting the tail end of it here, but reports from boats already down south are not good, high winds from the south (the direction we all want to go), and 5 metre waves. So we'll just wait untill the "farmer leaves the henhouse and goes to sleep!!"

Nervous Chickens

2009-10-27T09:23:00.000-07:00

We are still anchored in Cascade Bay, Norfolk Island, and are joined by 8 other boats. The locals tell us the previous record was 5 boats here all at one time, so that's a bit ominous......we don't like breaking those kind of records.
We're all a bit like nervous chickens in the hen house, with the farmer closing in with his axe!!
We are going ashore in relays so the boat is not left unattended.
Norfolk Island is incredibly beautiful; its hilly with huge pine trees, green rolling hills, and dotted with wooden houses.
The big winds and swell are meant to come through today so we'll sit tight and see what happens.

Beautiful Norfolk Island (25/10/09)

2009-10-26T09:27:00.000-07:00

Position 29 degrees, 01S, /167 degrees 58E.
Anchored in Cascade Bay, NE part of island.
Arrived at Norfolk Island yesterday afternoon. Still very light winds (as we are in the centre of a high pressure system).
We were met at the dock by the customs, and we were worried that we would have to pay the entrance fees into Australia (Norfolk Island is part of Australia) and the fees are some of the highest in the world. The nice customs man said no worries mate, no charge!
After we met the customs man a local man came up to us and said we leave a car here at the dock when Yachties are in the bay, so come over and use it when you like!
This morning we met David our fuel man. He picked me up (Jackie) and we left Neil on board as a few yachts have dragged onto the rocks in bad weather so its recommended that someone stays on board at all times.
David took me to his beautiful house, which he builgt himself out of local pine trees. We picked up his motorboat on a trailer and a big fuel can, then off to the pump to buy fuel.
Once back at the dock, he attached the boat via a bridle & hoists lines to his truck and backed the truck to lift the boat off the trailer, then slowly released the boat into the water. We came alongside Camelot, and he fixed up a dive bottle of compressed air to the diesel drum and we pumped the fuel into our tank in minutes. Its the best way we've even seen it done, and not a drop spilt into the ocean.
Another 2 boats have just arrived in our bay, and the locals were laughing saying its like getting a weather report - we know bad weather is coming when we see the yachts pull in!!
So we'll sit in this bay until its too rough then all move around to a different bay, like musical chairs, avoiding the wind and swell.

"Pit Stop" at Norfolk Island (24/10/09)

2009-10-25T09:48:00.000-07:00

Position as of 2000 UTC, Oct. 25th.
28 degrees, 18S, 167 degrees 45E.
Still motoring with light winds - will arrive Norfolk Island later today.
John, my HAM radio contact on the island is organising the fuel, and helping us with weather predications for when we leave. We may have to stay at Norfolk Island for a few days as some bad weather is passing to the south of us.

On to Norfolk Island. (23/10/09)

2009-10-25T09:34:00.000-07:00

Position 26 degrees 00S, 167 degrees 05E.
Somebody shoot the weatherman!!
We were expecting our ESE to continue, but someone somewhere switched them to SE, so they are right in front of us. We've tried sailing off the wind to get a more comfortable ride, but we found we were miles off course in a new hours, which is normally OK, but on this trip time is of the essence - get to NZ fast before the storms get you.
So we are having to motorsail to keep our speed up. The latest forecast shows the winds dropping. Normally we would be unhappy, but today we want less wind and waves "on the nose".
We've decided to pull into Norfolk Island. It's a tiny blob of rock due south of New Caledonia owned by Australia. We thought we'd try and get extra fuel so I got on the HAM radio net - asked if anyone knew any HAMs on Norfolk Island. Almost immediately someone was located and on air, we found out about the fuel, and which bay is the best for loading jerry cans. We'll speak again as we get closer - maybe he'll invite us for tea!!

Slow start (22/10/09)

2009-10-25T09:30:00.000-07:00

Position 24 degrees 20.92S, 166 degrees 56.21E.
Slow start wind was good but now being unhelpful.
Position via the radio which comes from Pacific seafarers might not be published yet, there was a mix-up with the request - should be on the roll call tomorrow.
All is well. J & N.

New Caledonia (10/10/09)

2009-10-24T13:24:00.000-07:00

Had to bear off as headwinds getting ridiculous, so headed to east side of island to shelter in a small bay. Had a very tranquil night, and caught up on much needed sleep.
Now will pick our way around the reefs heading to Noumea - it's still 70 miles, so we may anchor in another small bay tonight.
We can't hear the wind from our bay, so we are hoping its gone a lot less.

Bash Crash Wallop (09/10/09)

2009-10-24T13:19:00.000-07:00

Position 21 degrees, 54S, 167 degrees 20E.
Beating into 20 - 25 knot headwinds, due to a storm in New Zealand that has stolen our lovely downwind tradewinds.
Very wet and wild, but all OK. Hope to make the pass and go behind the reef before dark so we can anchor and rest.

On passage to New Caledonia (08/10/09)

2009-10-24T13:05:00.000-07:00

Position 21 degrees, 16 S, 169 degrees 32 E.
150 miles to go.
Sailing in NW wind 12 knots, genoa and staysail.
Haven't seen any Tsunami's out here. It's relatively safe if encountered out at sea; being in Port and tied up is the worst place.
We read a very ineresting account from a sailor we met in El Salvador, who was tied to the dock in Pago Pago when the first Tsunami hit. His report can be found at learnativity.touchpad.com - look for "Tsunami tango".
Should arrive in New Caledonia tomorrow a.m.

New Caledonia

2009-10-15T13:32:00.000-07:00

Getting the "galerider" ready, so we can throw it off the back of the boat to slow us down if we encounter a storm.

Kiwi pals off "Gucci" being poisoned on Camelot.

Fragrant flowers Fiji.

Port Moselle Marina Noumea, our current home.

Waterfront cafe Port Moselle Noumea

Musket cove Fiji.

Finally arrived after many hours of bashing to wind. Had to divert from our course to Noumea and pull behind the island to take shelter. Set off again next day and gradually

hopped via a few nice bays into lovely Noumea.

Wow what a place it's like someone cut of a slice of the South of France and dropped it in the Pacific....it's gorgeous, and guess what its going to be the closest island to us once we live in New Zealand!

Now we are getting ready for the big jump to New Zealand. Its action stations on Camelot, we are moving around all the stuff on the boat. Storing heavy items low down so they don't fly out of cupboards, making sure batteries are well secured, taking off ventilation cowls. Basically trying to be ready for the worst, but at the same time hoping for the best!

We will leave Noumea in a few days and head south to the last island off the south coast, call Isle de Pins, then wait there, monitoring the weather, then push off the last 870 miles to Opua New Zealand. The first 400 miles should be OK, then its out of the tropics and sub tropics and head towards the roaring forties!!!! We expect to have some heavy weather once past 30 degrees south, so its hold on tight and bash our way through, or stop, heave to and let it pass over us, so there's the plan.

Fiji to New Caledonia passage (07/10/2009)

2009-10-08T01:26:00.000-07:00

Position 20 degrees 10 S, 172 degrees 05E.
Miles from Fiji 367
Miles to New Caledonia 308
Had good winds, close reach first, then the wind changed to south east, and is now behind us.
Sailing with 130% genoa, in 1.5-2 metre seas.
Nice moon each night which makes it great.
We have to time our arrival carefully as there is a pass that we have to cross to get in behind the reef on the south side. We hope to cross the pass on a flood or slack tide, but we have to have good daylight too, so we can see the reefs.
Haven't seen much marine life except one big sea turtle.

Tsunami update

2009-10-01T15:24:00.000-07:00

HERE IS AN INTERESTING BUT CHILLING REPORT FROM A BOAT WE KNOW IN SAMOA, PARTICULARLY THE LAST PARAGRAPH, WHEN ONE BOAT FINDS ITSELF"SAILING" DOWN THE MAIN STREET TAKING OUT POWER LINES ETC WITH HIS MAST!

This received at 3.30am from SV Gallivanter in Pago Pago, American Samoa:

This morning (six hrs ago) we were shaken awake by an earthquake which seemed to have no end! We were aboard Gallivanter and tied side-to a big concrete dock in the heart of Pago Pago, American Samoa. And after living up & down the California coast, I knew this was no minor tremor.

After the rude awakening, Cath & I walked across the dock and chatted with a few of our fellow sailors, one of whom said that he's just done a Google search on "recent earthquakes" and said that it measured-in at 8.1 and the epicenter was only 120 miles distant.

We returned to Gallivanter and I turned on our laptop and searched the same website. Sure enough there it was... "8.1 earthquake - American Samoa - 20 minutes ago". I clicked on the "Show Map" option and noticed the epicenter was located south west of Pago Pago... which is located on the southern side of the island.

Just as I was considering the ramifications of that little fact... all hell started breaking loose! Our boat was on the move! My first reaction was to start the engine and dash up on deck to see what was going on. I witnessed the water around us was rapidly dropping! Rapidly! In a blink of an eye, we were on the bottom and the boat was falling away from the dock! Three of our big dock lines popped and we fell right over into the mud - the entire basin we had been floating in only moments ago had completely drained! People were screaming!

Next - the water came flooding back in at an even more alarming rate and the next thing I knew we were floating directly above the dock! Over the concrete slab and drifting toward a young lady we knew (from another boat) who was desperately hugging a power pole and up to her chin in swirling water! I told Cath to cut the two remaining dock lines with our serrated bread knife and to be quick about it!

Right as I put the boat into gear, we were somehow washed back off the dock and into the basin as I advance to full throttle and we accelerated through a floating debris field of floating docks, fuel drums, sinking boats, a shipping container and a barnicle encrusted wreck all of which were spinning in the torrent of rapidly dropping sea level. It was absolute mayhem! As we steered out toward the deep water in the center of the harbor I looked over my shouder and saw what appeared to be a waterfall pouring off the dock and shore beyond. Not one of the dozen vessels remained at the dock. All were underway in a matter of seconds... with or without crews aboard.

We motored around in the middle of the harbor watching the waves of floods & ebbs while wondering about after-shocks and our fellow cruising sailors. As we passed one of our neighbors she shouted to us that her husband had been washed off the dock as they were trying to get away. She was alone and seriously concerned. Other boats broke free from their moorings and anchors in the initial seismic waves and many were driven ashore, or driven under by loose tuna boats.

After about three hours, we felt it was finally safe enough to return to the dock. All we had were lengths of old line and we were short a couple fenders. We were the first to go in and we started un-tangling lines and helping others get back along side the concrete dock. All of the store-fronts along the water are destroyed, roving mobs of kids can be seen looting, the fence around the dock is gone, every boat on stands in a nearby boatyard were washed away. Big fishing boats are now in parking lots across the street. Absolute destruction is seen everywhere along the shore.

Phones and power are down but we got back online right away and I immediately went back to the recent earthquakes website to see if things have been calming down in the center of the earth. A number of aftershocks as strong as 6.0 have been recorded over the past few hours - but thankfully no more wave action has been noticed. We've been making Skype calls to our families and letting others use the computer as well to phone home.

Online news reports say that the earthquake lasted three minutes and the highest flood rose 25 ft above normal! There are 20 confirmed deaths... including our neighbor who was swept off the dock. Most fatalities occured in and around the harbor where we live. Boats are battered and nerves are fried. One friend wound-up on his boat nearly 1000 feet away from the water after breaking from his anchor and sailing right down Main St. taking power & telephone wires down with his mast! Some people lost everything... including their lives. We came through remarkably well with only minor dammage sustained to our toe rail when the dock lines parted and to our fender basket which was the only point of contact with that drifting wreck. I never felt any jarring loads while we were hurtling around above & below the concrete dock, so I believe our hull, keel & rudder suffered no dammage from the wildest boat ride I've ever been on.

We're all okay... and very lucky.

TSUNAMI ALERT

2009-09-29T18:51:00.000-07:00

JUST A QUICK UPDATE, WE HAVE NOT BEEN AFFECTED BY THE EARTHQUAKE SOUTH OF SAMOA, WE WERE AT THE READY TO TAKE ACTION IF NEEDED BUT ALL QUIET HERE THANKFULLY, NOT SO IN SAMOA, IT MUST BE CHAOS.

Happy Anniversary to Us (28/09/09)

2009-09-29T11:09:00.000-07:00

On the 27th of September 2008 we pulled out of the dock in Emeryville. The dark morning was windless; we waved back to Stan and Mary on the dock as we pulled in the fenders and lines and headed out towards the shadowy outline of the Golden Gate Bridge.
Now 10574 miles under the keel, and almost across the Pacific.

Some more photos

2009-09-28T17:39:00.001-07:00

Our Austrian friends birthday party.

Vuda point marina Fiji.

Little boy beach bonfire wood collectors.

Beach bonfire big boys making fire.

Sugar train, taking cane to factory Lautoka Fiji

Trucks bringing cane from fields.

Bula from Fiji

2009-09-28T00:53:00.000-07:00

Bula everyone! That's hello in Fijian, and we must say it a million times a day to the friendly folk here.
Currently we are moored in Vuda POINT marina. We were gling to pull the boat out of the water and paint the bottom, but instead we have decided to sail to 2 more islands (Vanuatu and New Caledonia) and paint the boat in New Zealand.
Whenever we go into a marina, which is rare, we are always mega busy washing, cleaning mending etc. so its all go here. We are finding time to relax in the evenings with all our sailing pals. Last night we were introduced to Aussie Rules Football - the big final was on TV in the bar, and all the Aussies were wild, so now we are hooked on it too.

Lautoka Fiji (22/09/09)

2009-09-24T14:02:00.000-07:00

Arrived on West coast a few days ago. Left rainy Suva in a haze of clouds; had light southerly windsand clear skies for overnight trip to the west coast of Viti Levu. This changed very quickly as the sun came up and we approached the entrance to the reef. Huge clouds, squalls and buckets of rain descended. We had to feel our way in relying on instruments, fortunately its a huge deep pass. The rain continued to POUR, it was like a tropical monsoon. We cowered in the pilot house whilst we motored inside the reef and towards Lautoka.
We anchored in the downpour, and as soon as we had the hook down, and "cuppa tea" in hand, roaring winds blew through up to 50 knots. The anchorage became like open ocean, and we rolled around waiting for the anchor to drag, which it didn't, thankfully.
It lashed down all night and we could hear weary voiced people on the radio bashing into 50 knot winds, we were glad to be snuggled up inside.
Next day the sun was out and the place took on a new lease of life. We went into Vuda point marina and took a space. The marina is just a big round basin where you tie up to the side all facing the centre. Its tricky to get in your narrow space, and you throw 2 bowlines to the helpers, then you crank the lines to pull yourself into the centre of your spot.
We went to check in the office and found we were supposed to take ourselves and the boat around the corner to the actual port of Lautoka and re-checkin even though we have a cruising permit for the whole of Fiji, and we were told we would be fined if we didn't. We decided to enjoy the marina for the week-end and in vestigate the boatyard, where we will haul out next week, then go to Lautoka on Monday and SAY we've just arrived from Suva. We came round quite quickly so its plausible timewise.
The Fiji Government are giving out fines all over the place (maybe to make up for lost NZ and Oz aid).
So now we are parked by the Port and are legally checked in with no fines. Its an easy dingy ride to Lautoka, so we are getting jobs done and getting quotes etc. whilst we are here. All is well except Lautoka is the "sugar capital of Fiji" and the sugar plant belches out black smoke all over the boats!

Soggy in Suva

2009-09-14T20:27:00.000-07:00

Its hot and humid, and of course we are a bit soggy from all the rain. We have been busy , trying to check in and out of Suva, its all red tape and paperwork, and that is when you can find the officials, anyway we know all the chaps on the gate in the customs dockyard , we've been so many times. Its time consuming but everyone is very friendly. When we have not been filling in boat paperwork, we've been filling in all our New Zealand work permit papers and taking trips to the New Zealand immigration office , we know a lot of people there too !!

Now we've done all our shopping & form filling etc, and its off to the West coast tomorrow, we will do an overnight trip to Nadi, and hopefully meet up with some pals before we head into the boatyard for a haul and paint job. It supposed to be drier on the West coast, lets hope so. or the painting will be tricky!

photo update Tonga and Fiji

2009-09-13T12:51:00.000-07:00

FRUIT & VEG MARKET SUVA FIJI

THIS IS WHAT HAPPENS WHEN YOU MEET KIWI'S.

TONGAN LADIES IN BEST CLOTHES, THE MATS AROUND THEIR WAISTS MUST BE VERY HOT.

HA'APPI GROUP TONGA.

BEACH BONFIRE TONGA.

TONGAN FEAST, THE PIG WAS FOR THE LOCALS WE GOT CHICKEN!

KAVA DRINKING CEREMONY TONGA.

TONGAN LADY ON WAY TO CHURCH.

Arriving in Suva Fiji (10/09/09)

2009-09-11T13:15:00.000-07:00

Had an interesting trip - first no wind, then 20-25 knots for the 2nd day, up to 30+ last day. We went so fast under staysail alone (tiny triangle of sail at the front of boat) we had to heave to (stall boat into a holding pattern) amd wait for daylight before entering the port.
Fiji is under military rule at the moment so tensions are a bit high. They have instigated a new rule that all foreign vessels must fax or email their intention to enter Fijian waters at least 48 hours ahead. We obtained all the forms, and we faxed and emailed; both bounced back as undeliverable so we called on the phone - just a blank answer machine so we left a message. So then we were not sure they knew we were coming and its a big $10,000 fine for non-compliance, so we sent an email to the Yacht Club and Marina in Suva asking for help - could they notify the authorities for us, so we are hoping this has been done! I also got on the ham radio and asked one of the controllers to fax our form again to customs which he did. So we'll see what happens when we get there! Anyway its been good practice ready for heavy weather sailing on route to New Zealand.

Slow Boat to Fiji (08/09/09)

2009-09-11T00:49:00.000-07:00

Position 19 degrees 54W, 177 degrees 24W.
Managed to sail about 40 miles yesterday,now wind has died so motor sailing. We expected 20-25 knots from the forecast, but that must be another weather forecasting myth. Luckily we filled up with duty free fuel inTonga, but we were hoping it would last us to New Zealand, but I think we'll have to use it now.
Anyway the calm seas and sun are nice. We've been having nothing but rough passages prior to this so we'll just kick back in the cockpit and read, keeping an eye out for whales, tankers and other yachties.

Med moored in Nuku'alofa

2009-09-03T23:13:00.000-07:00

Breezed in to the harbour on Monday and were met by our Kiwi friends on "Gucci" who offered to tie our stern line to the wharf whilst we "Med moored" stern to wharf.

Had a roughish passage from Ha'paii to Nuku'alofa, 25- 30 knots on a close reach, but no worries we practiced our heavy weather techniques, and all was well.

Not so for another boat. When we arrived we heard a Mayday relay from the Tongan authorities, the skipper from a yacht had fallen overboard, and rumour has it his crew were not too familiar with sailing etc, and the Man over board drill wasn't very successful, anyway he eventually set off the EPIRB (emergency beacon) but so far the skipper has not been found!!!

Apart from that sobering news, we are having a lovely time, we cycle down into town , shopping at the market, exploring and meeting the locals, unlike Vava"u this part of Tonga is very" Tongan" and not too touristy which we are loving.

Off to Fiji Monday weather permitting.

Leaving Ha'appi (29/08/09)

2009-08-30T01:01:00.000-07:00

Leaving tonight from Ha'appi group to go to the most southerly group of Tonga, the Tongatapu group. We will head for Nuku'alofa which is the capital and, hopefully, find a place to tie up on the wharf whilst we explore the King's Palace, the town and the local markets etc.
On this trip we will have to pass the area where the ferry sank a few weeks ago. They still have not found all the bodies, so we are desperately hoping we don't find any floating past us.
There are a lot of whales in this area too, so no doube we'll see a few tonight. Let's hope they are all awake and paying attention, we certainly will be looking for them. We have a good moon, so we should be OK.

Lifuka island Ha'appi group Tonga

2009-08-28T08:00:00.000-07:00

Now moving south through Tonga. Had a good time in Vava'u. Went to two Kava drinking ceremonies (noxious slightly druglike drink made from ground Kava roots. Its all the rage in Tonga and Fiji but it tastes and looks like muddy water!).
Also went to a Tongan feast on a beach, very tasty. Also had children dancing Tongan style and good Ukelele music too.
On our way from Vava'u to Ha'appi we saw loads of whales, some breeching, others just flapping their tails. As we were approaching the first anchor spot three whales were dead ahead. We stared with awe, which then turned to dread when they didn't move. Neil grabbed the wheel, disengaged the auto-pilot and we swerved out of the way, then he saw the depth sounder read 104 feet as one dived down beneath us. Fortunately it swam away and did not re-surface with us perched on it's back!!
The weather is better now tradewinds are back and the clouds have cleared.
The islands in this group are very small, poorly charted, have beautiful sandy beaches, lots of coral and fish on the reefs. The Tongan people are very reserved but pleasant. They are very religious and dress very conservatively. They wear strange rush/straw mats around their waists. They look like they have picked up the kitchen mat the tied it around their middle. They seem bulky, hot and not very flattering. Most people wear black long skirts, the men too, the clothes seem interchangeable between men and women. We have some pictures so, hopefully, we can publish them when in Nuku'alofa (then most southerly group) - we should be there next week.
Off to the village to buy some potatoes to put on our beach bonfire we are having along with another boat tonight. They said they had ordered a full PIG to cook!!!! Not sure if they are joking......if it turns up I hope its gutted - we should be really full after a full pig between 6 of us!

Sunny Days in Tonga

2009-08-21T11:44:00.000-07:00

Now the sun has decided to come out from behind the clouds, we've been busy with boat jobs; retensioned the rigging, resewed a broken sail slide currently trying to splice an eyelet in a halyard (like croquet with ropes).......Shiver me timbers we might make mariners yet; we'll probably have everything up to snuff just as we pull into Auckland!!
Anchored in Port Maurelle Bay just south of Neiafu, crystal clear water and sandy beaches just off boat. Will swim over when splicing job complete (as a reward) then a nice rum drink. We have too much cheap Panamanian rum left and are dishing it out to all and sundry who pass by. We have to declare the grog in Fiji, and we hear they take a dim view to hiding it, so we don't want to pay duty or a fine on the stuff, so its drink it, give it away and trade for fish and lobsters, before we leave Tonga.

Soggy in Tonga (18/08/09)

2009-08-19T11:31:00.000-07:00

Still exploring Neiafu, but in between rain showers, been on a bike ride and hike, but too cloudy and chilly for in water activities.
Leaving tomorrow for exploration of the other Vavau anchorages.
Hopefully some kayaking and swimming.

Neiafu Vavau Group Tonga August 12th 2009

2009-08-14T11:27:00.000-07:00

Arrived minutes ago after a bumpy but OK trip from Niue. Left Niue Sunday afternoon - arrived Tonga Wednesday morning after a 2 day trip?? Lost a day due to crossing the International Dateline.
Now hooked on a mooring in the harbour - will snooze then check in and explore.

Niue island

2009-08-08T23:43:00.000-07:00

We are sat on board getting ready to leave Niue tomorrow ( weather permitting), and we are overwhelmed by the Whales singing outside, they are so close to the boat, singing and splashing its truly incredible.

We went outside a while ago to watch, but its pitch dark, maybe later when the moon comes up we'll get another amazing show.

Off to Tonga tomorrow, we'll probably see a lot of Whales on the way there, as we hear from friends over there its full of Whales too, hopefully they are all awake and we don't crash into any sleeping ones.

We never tire of seeing the wild animals, you find yourself watching them, then realising you have a big smile on your face!

Anchored in Aitutkai lagoon.

Local Rugby match Aitutkai, final game of season, lots of violence on the pitch!

Beach, Palmeston atoll.

Our hosts in Palmeston, Tere, Yvonne & Shekinah Marsters.

Shekinah throwing the anchor in the lagoon to secure their boat.

Local children we met on Palmeston Atoll.

Dinghy hoist Niue harbour, very handy with big swell in bay.

One of the many rock pools/caves on Niue.

SOME PHOTOS

2009-08-08T22:52:00.001-07:00

LAZY AFTERNOON IN HAMMOCKS AITUTAKI.

RUB A DUB DUB 17 " MEN" IN A TUB.........BIGGEST CROWD ON BOARD TO DATE

LAGOON AITUTAKI COOK ISLANDS

Sight Seeing around Niue ( 05/08/09)

2009-08-07T12:37:00.000-07:00

Yesterday our pals off "Coromandel Quest" radioed us in the morning telling us they had hired a car, and would we like to join them for a spin around the island........yes please was the cry.
We set off on a clockwise route stopping at all the sights. Mostly its caves that have been formed out of the limestone rock by the pounding sea. The island is just a huge solid lump of rock, and we think that is why the water is so incredibly clear, as there is no sediment from the land in the water. So we spent hours clambering over great lumps of old coral, wading through rock pools, and clinging onto slippery stalagtites and stalagmites.
The islanders are nowhere near as affluent as French Polynesia or the Cook Islands. This is because they are an indepentant nation with no colonial aid - they depend on New Zealand for defense but that is all. A lot of young people leave and go to New Zealand as there is more work, also there was a huge hurricane here in 2004 that really damaged a lot of the island, and the buildings are still here all broken and very hazardous if there was another big storm.
Anyway they seem a happy lot, the older people in particular are very jovial and friendly.
Today we plan to go snorkelling with the whales - we are hoping to see humpback and sperm whales.

Niue Island (3rd August 2009)

2009-08-05T12:02:00.000-07:00

Arrived offshore south of Niue 11 pm Saturday night so hove to (stall sails and stop forward motion) and waited for daylight to sail in. Once daylight came it was raining so hard we could barely see the island - it was lashing down. Gave the boat a good wash though!!
We are attached to moorings provided by the yachy club. The seabed here is solid rock, so anchoring very difficult.
The sea is crystal clear and visibility is about 40 metres!! There are a lot of whales and calves around, also seasnakes (harmless so they say!). Met up with a lot of our sailing chums already here and had a nice BBQ at the yachy club.
Niue is a huge flat rock jutting out of the sea, it is sheer as you approach so no beaches etc. to land dingies, so there is a big mechanical hoist to pull them out. There is a big hook off the end of the hoist left dangling over the water - you attach this to your 3 point harness, jump out, then work the hoist and pull the arm over the land. When the dingy is in the air, then lower onto a little truck to move the dingy into a parking space on the wharf. If you look up www.niueyachtclub.com there is probably a photo.

Palmeston Island

2009-08-02T02:27:00.000-07:00

Position 18 degrees 39S, 165 degrees 55W. 224 miles to Niue.
Still having good strong winds 20+ knots on the beam, so all well,we are romping along.
Back to our experience on Palmeston. We arrived the same day as the diesel delivery and the fish pickup, so it was a busy day for the island. We didn't get ashore until the next day as the swell in the pass was too high after they had finished with the big boat.
It's a very labour intensive operation, as the big boat can't get through any passes and has to be worked outside in the big swell, and deliveries taken on to the beach - there is no harbour.
Our hosts eventually picked us up at 11.00 hrs. Prior to this we were like little kids in an orphanage, with faces pressed to the window waiting to be claimed!
Once claimed we were taken onto the only inhabited island (Palmeston Island) the other motos are for holidays, wood, food collection.
After meeting almost all the 62 residents (30 of them children) we had lunch in the thatch house of our hosts, Tere & Yvonne; we had lovely lamb chops, sausage, rice potatoes, coleslaw followed by jelly and ice cream.
The island holds the title for the most freezers per head of population in the world, and they are everywhere - in thatch huts, in garages and houses etc. They order their food every few months from Rarotonga, and have it shipped in. Also they fill the freezers with fish to sell when the big boat comes.
The day was very interesting and we were shown around by Yvonne, who is the school principle, and Shekinah (age 12) There are still 3 parts of the family descended from one father and 3 mothers. Unfortunately there is a lot of politics between the 3 clans, which is sad. We were surprised to see most tools and equipment locked up, which is very sad on a 1/2 mile by 1/2 mile island hundreds of miles from its neighbours.
The school was interesting and the level of education very high. Healthwise there is a nurse who runs the clinic, and a Dr. comes very infrequently - most times a passing yachtie Dr. runs a clinic, and the dentist comes about once every 5 years. There is no airport or helicopter available, and if someone needed the hospital it would take 48 hours for the boat from Rarotonga to reach them (they would send a Dr. & nurse) then 48 hours to get back.
We did notice how healthy everyone looked, and the graves on the islands all contain old people.
Anyway we were happy to be adopted for the short time we were there, but still like our original families.

Palmerston Atoll to Niue Island (30/07/09)

2009-08-01T01:59:00.000-07:00

Position 18 degrees 09 south, 163 degrees 38 west.
On passage from Palmerston Atoll to Niue Island, 360 miles to go.
Lefgt Palmerston this morning; been sailing in 15 - 20 knots on the beam all morning. Fingers crossed it stays like this.
Palmerston was fascinating and enjoyable; more on that later as it is a bit bouncy to write too much.
Next stop Niue (pronounced newey).
All well on board.

Correction

2009-07-28T11:53:00.000-07:00

Correction from yesterday - the prolific populator from Lancashire was William Marsters, not John, and he lived out here in 1862 onwards.
We are 8 miles offshore, so should be adopted soon by the locals.......eek.

Leaving Aitutaki

2009-07-28T00:49:00.000-07:00

Position 18 degrees 49 mins S, 160 degrees mins W.
En route from Aitutaki atoll to Palmerston Atoll Cook Islands - 148 miles to go.
Managed to break away from Aitutaki - had been waiting for a storm to pass and the tide to be high enough to leave. 4 boats left today - 2 of us bound for Palmerston.
This next place is quite fascinating. Its a tiny atoll that was populated solely by one man who took 3 wives. The man was John Marsters and was originally from Lancashire England (the county that we are both from). Anyway all the people are his descendants - I think there are about 70 people.
When we arrive we will radio in and one of the owners of the moorings will come out and show us which mooring to take; from then on that family will "adopt" us for our stay. They will show us around and possibly ask us to help them work on something or help in the small hospital. They will also want to trade with us - food, grog, tools etc. They do this to make it fair as this is one of the few ways they can get income. Boy, I bet they hate it when 2 scruffy Brits turn up in a beaten up old boat. I bet they pray for big Catamaran owners!!

July 21st Aitutaki

2009-07-27T12:27:00.000-07:00

Busy times yesterday - 4 new boats arrived, 3 uneventful, but the 4th made up for that.
We heard a distressed voice on the radio; a boat with engine failure was trying to sail into the anchorage on the ebb tide and against the wind???!!! So we thought that was a novel approach. Before long he was in serious difficulty. We zoomed over in the dinghy as he was sideways in the narrow pass (he was inches off the reef) so we nudged him around so his bow was facing out; the tide and wind pushed him out again.
He then decided to wait for slack low tide, thankfully he has a shallow draft of 4 ft. We tied our dinghy and our neighbour's dinghy on each side of his boat so we were the power and he steered. All went well - we got him right in the anchorage.
Prior to all this we had decided to have a little party, so now we had 4 more boats to invite so we had a record breaking 17 people on board.
Today we are all hunkered down as a squally front passes over us; its cloudy and rainy and there are 2 more boats waiting to come in. This may prove tricky as its quite important to have good sunlight to see through the water so you can avoid the reefs and coral heads.
We've heard from a couple of boats who are at sea, one is having gusts up to 40 knots so fingers crossed it doesn't get worse for him. The South Pacific convergence zone is causing all the mischief, it has intensified the front.

Aitutaki Cook Islands (19/07/09)

2009-07-20T02:36:00.000-07:00

Well we've definitely settled in here, and we may have to stay until next week. Apart from watching the tides, we are keeping a very close eye on the weather.
This area is influenced by the south pacific convergence zone (area where SE tradewinds and equatorial winds meet) so if there is a front, low or high pressure system in the area, it is augmented by the SPCZ and makes the winds and waves more intense. There is a deep low coming off New Zealand so we are watching to make sure it passes before we poke our noses out, but on the other hand we have to leave before the tides get too low!
In the meantime is church for us today - we'll cycle around and pull into the church with the best singing, then off to the beach for lunch and swimming.

Island Paradise & Anchoring Hell (17/07/09)

2009-07-20T02:07:00.000-07:00

Filling our days with swimming in the lagoon and cycling around the island, but all this comes to a grinding halt when a new boat appears on the horizon. Its all hands on deck ready to help them. One of us zooms out of the lagoon through the pass and outside the reef where the waiting boat is nervously consulting tide tables, saying prayers and generally crossing their fingers and toes. We'll plough back into the pass with them clutching a boat hook marked with the depth of their boat and give them a tour of the low spots in the pass; let them see the beast for themselves. Then its the same tour of the anchorage picking out a spot. Yesterday the new boat same through the pass OK, but then whilst anchoring bow and stern, the bow anchor broke free and with the 5 knot current and 20 knot breeze, the boat went sideways into its neighbour, (both inches from a reef). We zoomed over with the dinghy and spent several hours throwing out as many anchors as possible then winching both boats to safety....phew all ended well.
Tonight we go ashore to watch the local fire dancers.

Aitutaki Southern Cook Islands

2009-07-12T13:20:00.000-07:00

Now anchored inside the reef in the beautiful but shallow coral strewn lagoon.
Our entrance through the pass was made possible by two other sailors already in here. We would have really struggled without their help. We couldn't even see where the break in the reef was, where you enter. Yet again we are in awe of the pre GPS sailors. Our sailor chums took Neil in their dinghy for a recce. which was very valuable information.
We set off gingerly through the pass and hit the bottom a couple of times; Neil had to wiggle the rudder back and forth and carve a trence in the sand at one spot (we should charge a dredging fee!). Finally we sprung free and entered the lagoon. We thought the drama was all over but in fact it had only just begun.
Initially we set a bow and stern anchor quite easilyand were happy. We decided to get our snorkel masks on and take a look at the anchors to make sure they were in OK - big mistake. We saw a rock by the bow anchor and moved it....that broke us free of course, so we scrambled on board and had to re-anchor. Our neighbours were anchored very close (as its a small space) but we got a lot closer at one point and they had to push us off with their dinghy whilst we re-anchored. Next we reset the stern anchor, whilst doing this the join in between the chain and rope came apart and the chain sank. Fortunately the front anchor was OK so in the water again to re-connect them underwater. It was only a few feet down, but there is about a 4 knot current sweeping through the anchorage so you are fighting it every time you dive. In the end we fixed everything and flopped on deck in a wet tired heap. One look at the swaying palm trees, blue lagoon and the sign saying Aitutaki Game Fishing Club - cold beer here - sign - and all was well!!

Arrived Aitutaki (10/07/09)

2009-07-10T12:13:00.000-07:00

Arrived safely in Aitutaki.
Long story - will update tomorrow with all the thrills and spills.
All well.

Nearing Aitutaki (08/08/09)

2009-07-08T14:48:00.000-07:00

Position 18 degrees 30S, 158 degrees 04W.
Distance from Bora Bora 387 nm.
Distance to Aitutaki 100 nm.
Wind sough 10 - 15 knots.
Sailing 5 knots upwind.
Bumpy rough night with squalls and big seas all night.
Now need to slow the boat down so that we arrive daylight tomorrow morning to go through he pass into the lagoon.
We need to get the tide just right as its very shallow going in, hopefully some people we know will still be there to advise us and help us. The lagoon is VERY small and shallow - we will need to tie the stern off to a tree, and anchor the bow so we don't hardly mo ve at all. Eek!!

Continuing onwards (07/07/09)

2009-07-07T11:11:00.000-07:00

Position 17 degrees, 56S, 155 degrees 44W,
Wind 5 knots ese.
Distance from Bora Bora 233 nm.
Distance to Aitutaki 254 nm.
Not much wind, working hard to make the boat go, but have a big moon lighting up the sky every night, its like someone shining a big light, it even casts shadows........wonderful.

On towards the Cook Islands (06/07/09)

2009-07-07T11:03:00.000-07:00

Bora Bora to Aitutaki Cook Islands.
Position 17 degrees 36S, 154 degrees 11W,
Distance from Bora Bora 144 nm
Distance to Aitutaki 343 nm.
Wind ese 8 knots.
Sailing 4.0 knots.
A bit slow going today, but its better than a white knuckle ride. Getting lots of reading and sewing done.

En Route to Atutaki (05/07/09)

2009-07-06T12:38:00.000-07:00

Position 16 degrees 40 S, 152 degrees 04 W.
Distance to Atutaki Southern Cook Islands 470nm.
Distance from Bora Bora 17nm.
Wind ese at 15 knots.
Course 241 degrees true.
All well on board, nice wind so far, but carefully watching the skies for squalls. The South Pacific convergence zone is very active around here and squalls can pack a punch up to 30-40 knots of wind.

Fun & frolics in Bora Bora

2009-07-03T17:53:00.000-07:00

It shouldn't be allowed.............the Brits & the Aussies together in the Yacht club!

We've been led astray by some very bad Aussies, they are teaching us bad ways and getting us a bad name for being VERY NOISY.

We'll try & upload some of the tamer photos.

Apart from that we've been busy exploring the island. Its been very windy & rainy on some days, but we've braved the weather, and seen the sights.

Off to Atutaki Atoll in the Cook islands on Sunday, weather permitting.

Mmmmm............Bora Bora

2009-06-28T11:36:00.003-07:00

Languishing in Bora Bora.

Cycled around the island (30k) taking in the sights. It has a very beautiful lagoon

with large Motos (small islands made up of reef fringing the island) these Motos have been developed for tourism they have the typical thatch roof bungalows out onto the water. The hotels operate launches to bring the guests in from the Motos to the main island, some are very grand.

We are attached to a mooring off the Bora Bora yacht club, the water is very deep on the eastern side hence the moorings. There was a wedding party of French people at the yacht club Saturday night, they really let their hair down!

There is a big local dancing competition being held in the town (3 k from yacht club) we walked down last night to watch, the road is very narrow,dark with unfriendly dogs snarling at our heels, we managed to get a lift back thankfully.

Kayaking and snorkelling will be on the to do list in the next few days, after we've done a few boat jobs.

The Society islands

2009-06-22T10:38:00.000-07:00

Neil relaxing after long bike ride Raiatea.

Now exploring the smaller Society islands after checking out with customs, immigration etc in Papeete.

First stop was 108 miles from Papeete, Huahine island. We kayaked in the bay behind the reef, which is great, its very protected calm & shallow, so we can see the reef fish from the kayaks.

Our boat neighbours on "Venture" hired a car drove around the island for a few hours, they still had time left on the rental ,so they very kindly lent us the car, off we zoomed to see all the sights. Its a small island & we drove around it all in 2 hours.

It was weird to drive a car we haven't done that for a while!

Next Raiatea, spent Sunday, Fathers day cycling around the island, kept stopping at the churches to hear the beautiful Polynesian hymns the men & womens voices were harmonised, all the women were wearing white dresses, it was lovely. After all the churches we stopped off at a hotel, and watched some dancing & drumming entertainment, & had a couple of well earned beers after the 45k cycle.

Moorea French Polynesia

2009-06-11T12:58:00.000-07:00

View over Cooks bay Moorea.

On three pines trail Moorea.

Pot luck on Camelot.

Tahiti ballet Co.

Tahiti ballet Co,on the lawn of the Bali Hai hotel.

More dancing.

Moorea the beautiful island opposite Tahiti is our current "home".There are quite a few boats here, and we have been busy.

We arrived Sunday afternoon just in time to see a fantastic dancing display by the Tahiti ballet company, it was hosted by the Bali hai hotel which is right by the side of the bay we are anchored. The hotel guests and the sailors saw a 2 hour show on the lawn, which was backed by swaying palm trees and rugged mountains, the whole thing was incredible.

There have been numerous boat parties and lots of eating & drinking we held one & had 12 people on board, we think that's record so far!

The day after a group of us hiked up to a lookout spot high above the bays , then hiked right over the other side of the island, it took all day, and we had to hitch hike back, so we split up in to smaller groups to achieve this, of course it became a huge game who could get back first!

Tomorrow, weather permitting Neil & I plan to cycle around the whole of the island

its 60 km so we better set off early!

Tahiti

2009-06-06T20:07:00.000-07:00

This Ray swam past the waterfront restaurant in Fakarava.

Table & chairs in the water at the restaurant Fakarava.

Pearl farm in Fakarava.

Oysters and the would be Pearls ready to put in the water. will be pulled out in 18 months.

Tahiti yacht club.

Having holes drilled in our pole.

New Tahitian haircut & Tahiti yacht club bar.

Reef and bay where we are moored at the yacht club.

Catch of the day for sale by roadside.

Now in busy bustling Papeete.After a bit of a rough passage we managed to get the last mooring at the Tahiti yacht club, which is a good bit of luck as Papeete is loaded to the max with boats.

We've been whizzing around on the buses and on our bikes,sight seeing & getting some of our jobs done.We managed to get a new piece of metal tube to try and fix our broken pole. It was not easy first we had to find a place that sold metal poles, we found a plastic window factory, that had some poles ( probably drainpipes) then the language barrier, then trying to get holes drilled in the pole, then transporting a 4 metre long pole in a dingy, for several miles!!

After all that work we washed tons of laundry in the yacht club washing machine, then washed the boat from stem to stern. We did however manage to fit in a couple of beers on the waterfront in Papeete, watching the world go by.

Off to Moorea tomorrow.

Waiting for good wind

2009-05-31T14:03:00.000-07:00

Still in Fakarava waiting for the wind to die down so we can sail to Tahiti, there is a big weather front passing so we'll wait a bit longer before we stick our noses out.

We are parked in front of a nice Dive hotel that has internet wifi so we are taking full advantage!

Still in Fakarava Tuamotos

2009-05-30T16:16:00.000-07:00

SHIVER ME TIMBERS ITS BLACK PEARLS. WE TRADED SOME RUM TO GET THESE, NOTE SOME ARE ENGRAVED WITH DESIGNS.

KAYAKING MAKEMO ATOLL TUAMOTOS.......JUST SEA & SKY!

ENTERING THE PASS AT FAKARAVA ATOLL TUAMOTOS

INVITED TO CHURCH IN MAKEMO BY LOCALS. THE SINGING IN THE CHURCH WAS MAGNIFICENT.

NEIL'S NEW PALS MAKEMO TUAMOTOS, THEY LOOKED VERY DIFFERENT WHEN WE MET THEM IN CHURCH THE NEXT DAY!!

THE "PEARL MAN'S" LOVELY CHILDREN.

THE "PEARL MAN" HE ENGRAVES ON THE PEARLS & ALSO MAKES JEWELLRY. NOTICE THE RUM BETWEEN US ON THE TABLE.ALSO NOTICE HIS POLYNESIAN TATOOS, AND NOTICE THAT HE'S QUITE TASTY LOOKING TOO!

WINDING ROADS UP TO THE MOUNTAINS ON NUKA HIVA MARQUESAS

HIRED A PICKUP TRUCK FOR A TRIP AROUND NUKA HIVA WITH SOME OTHER BRIT AND KIWI SAILORS.

TRADING CANNED CORN BEEF FOR FRESH FRUIT NUKA HIVA MARQUESAS.

Fakarava Atoll Tuamotos French Polynesia - 27/05/09

2009-05-28T02:59:00.000-07:00

Position 16 degrees 03S, 145 degrees 37 W.
Managed to coax the anchor chain from the reefs and rocks and set sail the 108 miles to Fakarava. Surprisingly we got wind contrary to the forecast, but the wind was on the nose (right in front of us), anyway we'll take any wind we can these days, so we sailed heeled over upwind last night, and arrived this morning.
We are one of 11 boats. It's a lot bigger the more commercialised than Makemo. Its lovely clear water, swaying palm trees etc. A huge manta ray swam past the boat earlier.
We are taking the bikes ashore later to cycle along the Atoll, check out the few small hotels and dive shops. Waiting for wind to sait to Tahiti.

Still in Makemo - 24/05/09.

2009-05-25T08:49:00.000-07:00

Position 16 degrees 26S, 143 degrees 56W.
We left the north eastern anchorage yesterday heading for Fakarava, but the wind was very light so we sailed slowly along the outside of the reef, then timed our entry into the north western pass of Makemo, and anchored here. There is no village here so its extremely quiet, tranquil and very beautiful. It was difficult to find a spot to anchor as the light was fading and there were huge rocks and reefs everywhere, we think we found a patch of sand to bury the anchor...........let's hope we don't get the chain wrapped around a coral head (happens a lot here!).

Makemo Atoll Tuamoto Archipeligo, 22/05/09.

2009-05-23T01:38:00.000-07:00

Position 16 degrees 37S, 143 degrees 34W.
Now anchored in the lagoon in beautiful Makemo.
We've been here a few days now, and are the only visitors on the Atoll.
We have met lots of local people, and are loving the place. Its really picturesque, and hard to believe it has all been built on a small piece of reef sticking out of the huge ocean.
A couple of days ago there was an Argentinian boat in here too; they had wrapped their anchor rope around the prop and ripped out the gear box from their engine. The locals fixed everything for them, and they would not take any money. The sailors gave them some booze, and they accepted that!
We traded some rum with a local man for some lovely black pearls.
Been cycling around the town and out along the reef.
Went to church this morning and were overwhelmed by the beauty of the singing, it really was worthwhile, and fascinating too. Interestingly they do most of the service in the Polynesian language, not French.
Moving to Fakarava Atoll tomorrow.

Lagoon Makemo Atoll Tuomotos

2009-05-19T12:25:00.000-07:00

Position 16 degrees 37S, 143 degrees 34W,
Anchored inside the lagoon Makemo Atoll Tuomotos.
Managed to sail all night and reach the entrance to the atoll at the right time. It's an incredible sight when you see the atoll. Its just a huge circle of reefs sticking out of the very deep ocean, easy to miss, and easy to hit!!! This atoll is actually 40 miles long via 10 miloes wide.
The pass was easy and well marked; it reminds us of transiting the passes between the islands in the Bahamas. Same scenery too. Inside the lagoon the water is a myriad of turquoise colours dependent on depth, in stark contrast to the very deep dark water outside the lagoon; the land is low and fringed with Palm trees. Will go ashore soon to search for pearls!!

Blog Control Clitheroe - Jackie's Mum

2009-05-19T05:59:00.000-07:00

Update 18/05/09

2009-05-18T03:29:00.000-07:00

Position 15 degrees 24S, 143 degrees 05W - day 3.
Distance from Tahoie Bay Nuka Hiva Marquesas-420 nm
Distance to Makemo Atoll Tuomoto Archipeligo-68nm.
Distance is last 24 hours - 132 miles.
All is well; the wind has been better than we thought - we had to motor a bit yesterday, but romping along now. Very squally and thunderstorms on the horizon every afternoon, so we steer around them.
Should be at the pass into the lagoon tomorrow early am. You can only enter the pass at slack tide so we think we have it worked out OK. If you try and enter when the tide is coming out it pushes you out and you can't motor against the 8 knot current. If trying to enter as tide coming in current picks you up and pushes you in, and you may not be able to steer where you need to go, just being pushed around like a floating cork. so timing is everything. The reason for all this is the vast quantities of water from a huge ocean being squeezed through a small gap in the coral reef. That's basically what the atolls are, they have no middle, just a fringe of coral and a lagoon of water in the centre. Anyway they used to call this group the "Dangerous Archipeligo", prior to GPS, as the atolls are so flat you can't see them until too late sometimes, and without a GPS it must have been extremely nerve wrecki ng. So hats off to all the old salts who used to navigate with sextants....yes you Larry Duke!!!

Finally we leave the Marquesas - Thursday May 14th.

2009-05-18T01:55:00.000-07:00

Position 12 degrees 21 S, 141 degrees 41W - day 2.
Distance from Tahoie Bay Nuka Hiva Marquesas-280
Distance to Makemo Atoll Tuomoto Archipeligo-215
Distance is last 24 hours - 130 miles.
We pulled out of Nuka Hiva after 6 weeks. It was hard to leave what with shipwrecked sailors (still missing by the way). No wind, then we met up with some Brit, Kiwi and Aussie sailors we know from Panama, so it was fun and frolics with them. We all hired a 4X4 truck and explored the island, and topped it off with a big feast at a beach restaurant.
So far we've sailed, and are hoping the wind will hold for the whole trip. The forecast is for light winds so we'll try our best to sail the whole way.

Ship wreck sailor lost at sea!

2009-05-08T11:46:00.000-07:00

Sadly one of the American sailors here is missing, the wreck of his boat was found 15 metres underwater off the south west coast of Nuka Hiva where we are.

Over the last few days we have all been involved in the search for him. His dingy which he uses as a liferaft too, has not been found, so everyone is hoping he is in it or got to land.

The other singlehanded sailors are particularly subdued & can be seen watching the French Navy & Air force divers ,helicopters and boats. Its been 6-7 days now so fingers crossed.

We intend to leave for the Tuomotos soon, the wind is down at present too, so we are waiting for it to pick up.

more photos

2009-04-28T17:17:00.001-07:00

NUKA HIVA MAIN ANCHORAGE MARQUESAS

UA POU ISLAND MARQUESAS

BUYING BANANAS IN UA POU

WATERFALLS FATU HIVA MARQUESAS

CHINK THOSE CHAMPAGNE GLASSES AFTER 22 DAYS AT SEA,DID WE MENTION WE WERE THE FASTEST IN OUR FLEET??

BEAUTIFUL CHURCH TAHUATA ISLAND MARQUESAS

more photos

2009-04-28T17:07:00.000-07:00

LOCAL WOMEN WANTING TO TRADE BANANAS FOR RUM...YOU MUST BE JOKING!

photo update Marquesas

2009-04-27T11:45:00.000-07:00

BAY OF PENISES (ORIGINAL MARQUESAN NAME) FATU HIVA ( RENAMED BAY OF VIRGINS BY THE MISSIONARIES!

OUTRIGGER CANOE RACE HIVA OA MARQUESAS FLOWER GARLANDS FOR ALL RACERS

KING ARTHUR AND QUEEN GUINIVEIRE CONQUER THE MIGHTY PACIFIC.......WELL A BIG CHUNK OF IT!

Moving On (23/04/09)

2009-04-25T00:43:00.000-07:00

Position 09 21S, 140 02W.
Now on island Oa Poa. Arrived this morning after overnight sail from Hiva Oa.
Very steep mountains dramatically soaring from ocean, anchorage to ourselves. Will do some hiking today, and try and barter for a bunch of bananas when the clouds roll in and cools the place a little.

Enjoying the lush tropical Marquesas

2009-04-20T12:29:00.000-07:00

Position 09 54S, 139 06W Tahuata Island.
Loving the breezy and cloudy weather. The tall mountains "catch" the clouds so its rainy, lush and green. Keeps the heat down too.
There are fruit and flowers everywhere - its so green. We hiked to a waterfall the other day, muddy and wet, but spectacular.
The island people are, on the whole, friendly and give us fruit, especially the huge grapefruit called pamplemoose; they are sweeter than usual and massive.........yum yum.
Just taking our time ambling along the island chain. Lots of other boats arriving now, so new faces to meet, new boats to look at,k and new stories from the long passage.

KEEPING BUSY IN PARADISE (12/04/09)

2009-04-13T12:33:00.000-07:00

Lat.10 27 south, 138 40 west.
Currently anchored in the Bay of Penises on Fatu Hiva Marquesas, so named for the huge phalic looking rock formations.....photos to follow when internet available.
Having to anchor using bow and stern anchors due to small bays, some bays very deep too, so it's challenging but we are doing OK so far. One boat drifted out to sea the other night and woke up 2 miles out!! They had no radio on and never heard everyone shouting and hooting horns; good grog on that boat eh? Make sure we don't anchor next to them though.
Been doing some good hikes around the islands, and trundelling around on our folding bikes with fresh baguettes under our arms.

WE MADE IT

2009-04-08T10:27:00.000-07:00

Hurray arrived at Atuona Marquesas islands on April 4th at 0600.
After 22 ½ days
Total distance 3061 nautical miles
Distance as the crow flies from isla Isabella Galapagos to Atouna Marquesas 2924
Hours sailed 470 distance sailed 2604
Hours motored 70 distance motored 457
Highest mileage 24 hours 170
Lowest mileage 24 hours 89
6 days with mileage over 150
14 days with mileage 100-150
2 days with mileage less than 100
Average speed 5.6 knots
Showers 1 per person per day all with water caught from squalls!
Thrilled to be here, also its Neil’s birthday so double celebration. Scenery absolutely stunning huge mountains soaring up from the sea, tropical flowers, swaying palm trees, blue skies. We are bow and stern anchored close into the shore so its calm The town is a couple of miles walk around the bay stores full of French baguettes, fresh vegetables and fruit………….bliss.

LAND AT LAST (03/04/09)

2009-04-07T12:57:00.000-07:00

Position 09 54S, 137 33W.
Distance to Marquesas 76 nm.
Distance from Galapagos 2971 nm.
Distance in last 24 hours 122nm.
Last night we had the Southern cross crisp and clear high in the sky to south, the moon shimmering on the water to the north. Camelot bounding onwards; seems like she could go on forever, but the crew are ready for a good rest in the bay. We'll have to "heave to" tonight (stop the boat) and go slow so we arrive in daylight Saturday morning (also Neil's birthday). Can't wait to see the tall majestic mountains rising up from the ocean, the new scenery will be welcome.
Strange how you learn to adapt and live moving along constantly, over a ludicrous amount of miles and ridiculous slow speed.
We haven't thought too much about the whole vastness of it all; too busy focused inwards on the boat, making it go, keeping it going, and taking care of ourselves. Everything is very time consuming as stuff moves about while you are trying to work with it. Ourselves included - we've all been flung across the cockpit and galley a few times, not to mention the "head" toilet!
Anyway LAND HO....................after 22 days, not actually a bad time from the Galapagos.

Almost There (02/04/09)

2009-04-07T11:54:00.000-07:00

Position 09 54S, 135 07W.
Distance to Marquesas 215 nm.
Distance from Galapagos 2826 nm.
Distance in last 24 hours 113 nm.
Well the boat is very clean from all the rain we are having. Very stiff necks and joints from all the rocking and rolling. Spending our time reading and looking at glossy pictures of tropical anchorages.
Still have east wind 10 - 12 knots from behind.

Squalls and more Squalls (01/04/09)

2009-04-02T00:55:00.000-07:00

Position 10 00S, 133 15W.
Distance to Marquesas 326 nm.
Distance from Galapagos 2715 nm.
Distance in last 24 hours 145nm.
Rain and windy squalls are all that's keeping us moving forward so as we said before, we're friends with any wind that comes our way.
We are hot footing it into the anchorage to get a good spot as we've heard on the radio a whole Armada of boats (that left from Mexico) are converging on the same island, and we'll all want a nice calm spot after the days of rocking and rolling.

Are We There Yet? (31/03/09)

2009-03-31T14:13:00.000-07:00

Position 10 05S, 131 17S.
Distance to Marquesas 442 nm.
Distance from Galapagos 2598 nm.
Distance i 24 hours 119 nm.
God it's getting tedious. The sail plan and waves action we have at the moment causes us to roll around a lot. We have good wind and are making fair time, but it's starting to get very boring and the constant motion is making us crazy!
Apart from that all is well and we really want to get the anchor down and start exploring some tropical paradises.

A Day in the life of our Pole. (30/03/09)

2009-03-31T14:08:00.000-07:00

Position 10 11S, 128 52W.
Distance to Marquesas 585 nm.
Distance from Galapagos 2455 nm.
Distance in last 24 hours 113 nm.
Mended pole with wood and epoxy, put it out with big sail attached, squall came up,broke pole. Back to drawing board!!!
Otherwise slow but steady progress.

Operation Fix It (29/03/09)

2009-03-30T14:17:00.000-07:00

Position 09 51S, 126 58W.
Distance to Marquesas 697 nm.
Distance from Galapagos 2339 nm.
Distance in last 24 hours 167 nm. Not bad in light air with broken pole and torn light air sail!!
This morning bright and early we put our minds to taping the sail together and mending the broken pole. The sail is up and the pole is almost finished.
Light winds still 8 knots from the East. We are staying on a more northerly route as we see another low pressure weather front to the south and don't want another windless boat wash couple of days.
Still plodding along keeping very busy.

Just Rolling Along (28/03/09)

2009-03-29T15:12:00.000-07:00

Position 09 38S, 125 15W.
Distance to Marquesas 799 nm!!!!
Distance from Galapagos 2233 nm.
Distance in last 24 hours 165 nm.
Wind back, and all is well. We just keep plodding on, getting bored, and boat motion wearing on nerves, hey but at least its moving!

Tipee & Yahoo - The wind is back (27/03/09)

2009-03-28T12:43:00.000-07:00

Position 09 29S, 121 53W.
Distance to Marquesas 999 nm!!!
Distance from Galapagos 2033 nm.
Distance is last 24 hours 89 nm (worst yet).
WHAT A DIFFERENCE A DAY MAKES.
Yipee the wind is back and we love it, whizzing along at 8 knots again with wind in our hair and a song in our hearts, and the distance meter in our eyes....yes, less than one thousand miles left.
All our wet clothes are fluttering from the lifelines, rolling along under reefed mail full genoa. Will try & "operate" on patient light air sail this afternoon, & see if the patient can be saved!

Still on a slow boat to China (26/03/09)

2009-03-27T12:29:00.000-07:00

Position 09 21S, 119 40W.
Distance to Marquesas 1130 nm.
Distance from Galapagos 1899 nm.
Distance in last 24 hours 99 nm.
Little or no wind then heavy squalls with lots of rain, thunder and lightening. Very slow progress, in fact drifting as we write, waiting for next squall.
Broke whisker pole during squall rounded up and ping flailing pole sweeping the deck, then ripped light air, sail caught on open split pin on the anchor roller!!!!!so apart from that everything is dripping wet and gloomy. Wouldn't think we were on the sun and fun coconut milk run.
We had the first half of the trip easy so we are really having to work hard for this second half........the champagne will taste all the sweeter for it though.

Slow Boat to China (25/03/09)

2009-03-25T13:07:00.000-07:00

Position 09 23S, 118 10W.
Distance to Marquesas 1220 nm.
Distance from Galapagos 1808 nm.
Distance in last 24 hours 125 nm.
No land for at least 1500 miles in every direction, and no wind either; tradewinds supressed so its the slow boat to China.
3-5 knots per hour, getting lots of reading done.
Passed another yacht in the night about half a mile away..........quite rare - good job we keep watch.

HUMP DAY11111

2009-03-24T13:12:00.000-07:00

Positon 08 57W.
Distance to Marquesas 1451 nm.
Distance from Galapagos 1573 nm.
Distance in last 24 hours 157 nm.
No - not what you think..............It's over the halfway mark yipee!!!!!
Very busy in winds and squalls all night - now, of course, no wind.
Must go - we need to hunt dow the wind.

Almost in the Middle of Nowhere (22/03/09)

2009-03-24T13:03:00.000-07:00

Position 08 42S, 111 12W.
Distance to Marquesas 1635 nm.
Distance from Galapagos 1388 nm.
Distance is last 24 hours 130 nm.
Yesterday we had to try a few times to get our satellite phone to find a signal, which is unusual - then we remembered we're almost in the middle of nowhere, that's why.
Tomorrow, all being well, we'll actually be in the middle of nowhere.
All well. Scenery still the same - boat doing well - crew getting bored.

Update 21/03/09

2009-03-24T12:57:00.000-07:00

Position 08 23S, 108 47W.
Distance to Marquesas 1780 nm.
Distance from Galapagos 1242 nm.
Distance in last 24 hours 163 nm.
All still well. Wind 10-12 knots SE, Reaching with full genoa and main. Starting to get bored with the scenery, but it beats towering waves and cruel seas!!
Jackie and Neil.

Update 20/03/09

2009-03-24T12:48:00.000-07:00

Position 08 15S, 106 38W.
Distance to Marquesas 1908 nm.
Distance from Galapagos 1112 nm.
Distance in last 24 hours 170 miles!!!(very good).
Whizzing along (for now) in the full glory of the tradewinds 15 knots SE.
Wind on port quarter clear blue skies, speed averaging 7.5 knots, under reefed main and 130% genoa, wind steering vane doing its job well.
All well onboard.

Riding the Squall Line (on the edge of the doldrums) 19/03/09

2009-03-24T09:27:00.000-07:00

Position 08 07S, 103 47W.
Distance to Marquesas 2077 nm.
Distance from Galapagos 941 nm.
Distance in last 24 hours 148 (day 6).
Now it seems we are right on the edge of the doldrums, so clouds to the North, sun to the left, and nice winds down the middle just where we are. Waves are a bit big and a bit bumpy, but its good wind so we'll take it.
Being kept very busy on board.
Here is a typical day:
First of all we are rotating 3 hours on watch 3 hours off.
Early morning breakfast followed by the rounds checking for chafe.
We inspect all the ropes and pullies, sails etc. (what we can see).
Next its radio time checking in with the other boats out here, its a set schedule and one boat runs the rollcall and we all give a brief report,then we may switch frequencies to chat to the boats nearer to us.
Next job make ice for cocktails later, refill fridge with drinks cooling for rest of day.
Lunch and snoozes followed by a few boat jobs if not too choppy.
Next is showering on deck, which is very pleasant, cooling off after a hot day in the tropics then gently warmed with the setting tropical sun.
Now its time for some iced rum drinks followed by more radio checkins. Then dinner before it goes dark, watches, sleeping and another radio check in at 9 p.m.

Stuck in the boatwash

2009-03-18T15:21:00.000-07:00

Position 07 04S, 101 21W.
Distance to Marquesas 2224.
Distance from Galapagos 792.
Distance in last 24 hours 130.
We're on the edge of the doldrums/tradewinds so there is a lot of unsettled weather (higher winds and rain) as the two meet, so we are using this to help us. Like we said, we'll make friends with any wind that comes our way. We could easily head south and be out of the eternal boatwash, but we feel that to head south too soon would not be good, as we have many miles West to go. So we think it's best to gradually make our way southwest as much as possible. Our lat. long. for the Marquesas is 09 45S, 138 45W, so if you look on Google Earth you'll see the distances and angles.
All is well - these winds and rain are keeping us busy. We have caught gallons of water already.

Riders in the storm (17/03/09)

2009-03-18T11:48:00.000-07:00

Position 06 30 S, 099 14W.
Distance to Marquesas 2357 nm.
Distance from Galapagos 645.
Distance in last 24 hours 133.
Sorry forgot position yesterday.
All well going to keep in short, as sailing boisterous. Wind now from SE 15 knots, white caps seen for the first time this trip.....?? are these the mythical trade winds - we are trying not to count our chickens too soon.
Jackie, Neil & Stan.

Riders in the squalls (16/03/09)

2009-03-17T09:45:00.000-07:00

Distance to Marquesas 2441 nm.
Distance from Galapagos 502 nm.
Distance in last 24 hours 134.
Still have remnants of the full moon at night.
Sailing for the 2nd night in a row in squally NW wind with plenty of cool fresh rain. Pity in doesn't rain diesel! It's not the SE trades yet, but we're friends with any wind that comes our way.
Still having to motor during the day.

The search for wind continues (15/03/09)

2009-03-16T03:58:00.000-07:00

Position 04 degrees 00 mins S, 095 degrees 58 mins W.
Distance to Marquesas 2574 nm.
Distance from Galapagos 366 nm.
Distance in last 24 hours 137 nm.
Still sniffing out for some wind. Motoring at 260 true at 7 knts. Had a lot of squalls and rain yesterday and overnight so managed to sail quite a bit. Boat and crew got a good wash in the downpours.

The search for wind continues (14/03/09)

2009-03-16T02:00:00.000-07:00

Distance from Galapagos 243 nm.
Distance to Marquesas 2903 nm.
Nautical miles in last 24 hours 128.
All the forecasts show big storms in New Zealand and points south, which are sucking the wind out of our area. So no tradewinds until Wednesday was the last report!
So we're giving the motor a good run and using the fuel; we'll have to keep enough for getting into the anchorage. The plan is to motor southwest along the rhumbline and hopefully we'll be in a good position to use the wind once it returns.
All is well, keeping busy looking for wind, radioing other boats ahead and getting their weather info - there are quite a few of us out here.

THE BIG ONE !!!!!!!

2009-03-12T10:14:00.000-07:00

Well today is the day we plan to leave this afternoon for the 2800 mile passage to the Marquesas, and we would just like to take a moment to remember all the crazy people that influenced us, and say ¨"what the hell were you thinking" 2800 miles at walking speed across the largest stretch of water in the world!
We will leave from Isla Isabella Galapagos. We managed to sneak ashore at the other island Santa Cruz, but were spotted here. The port captain was on board before we even anchored! We planned to say we had a boat problem, and pull in per Maritime law to fix it. We actually ended up having a real problem........karma eh? He didn´t believe us and we had to argue alot, and fight the urge to bribe him. Eventually we argued the maritime law angle, & we are being "voted off" the island this afternoon. Neil fixed the problem this morning a wire had slipped out of a terminal he found it and redid it. We have sneaked ashore for some penguin, flamingo & blue footed boobie pictures (which we got) Now its lunch, more diesel & last minute vegetable shopping, then anchors away French Polynesia next. We will be sending reports via Satellite phone email & Mum Swift

Galapagos Islands

2009-03-02T12:22:00.000-08:00

Now anchored in Wreck bay, San Cristobel island, after a fantastic crossing. We had a good current with us, and good wind most of the time,and of course we were spoiled having 4 of us on board the watches were easy.

We expected to be able to sail to some of the other islands in the Galapagos, but the Equadorian government has changed the rules(they do this often, sometimes they say no boats can even stop and visit)now we have to stay in this island or take expensive trips.

Stan & Erika have gone to some other islands by ferry to explore and check the possibility that we can sneak onto a couple as we leave, so more on that in the future.

Our days are currently filled with filling up the fuel & water tanks ready for the long passage ahead. There is no dock here so we have to bring all the fuel & water by dingy in jerry jugs, and we are of course only a stones throw away from the Equator, so its not chilly!

We've been exploring this island, which is very beautiful and seen giant tortoises, many birds and lots of sea creatures,especially sealions, they are everywhere