Waiting for good wind

Still in Fakarava waiting for the wind to die down so we can sail to Tahiti, there is a big weather front passing so we'll wait a bit longer before we stick our noses out.

We are parked in front of a nice Dive hotel that has internet wifi so we are taking full advantage!

Still in Fakarava Tuamotos

SHIVER ME TIMBERS ITS BLACK PEARLS. WE TRADED SOME RUM TO GET THESE, NOTE SOME ARE ENGRAVED WITH DESIGNS.

KAYAKING MAKEMO ATOLL TUAMOTOS.......JUST SEA & SKY!

ENTERING THE PASS AT FAKARAVA ATOLL TUAMOTOS

INVITED TO CHURCH IN MAKEMO BY LOCALS. THE SINGING IN THE CHURCH WAS MAGNIFICENT.

NEIL'S NEW PALS MAKEMO TUAMOTOS, THEY LOOKED VERY DIFFERENT WHEN WE MET THEM IN CHURCH THE NEXT DAY!!

THE "PEARL MAN'S" LOVELY CHILDREN.

THE "PEARL MAN" HE ENGRAVES ON THE PEARLS & ALSO MAKES JEWELLRY. NOTICE THE RUM BETWEEN US ON THE TABLE.ALSO NOTICE HIS POLYNESIAN TATOOS, AND NOTICE THAT HE'S QUITE TASTY LOOKING TOO!

WINDING ROADS UP TO THE MOUNTAINS ON NUKA HIVA MARQUESAS

HIRED A PICKUP TRUCK FOR A TRIP AROUND NUKA HIVA WITH SOME OTHER BRIT AND KIWI SAILORS.

TRADING CANNED CORN BEEF FOR FRESH FRUIT NUKA HIVA MARQUESAS.

Fakarava Atoll Tuamotos French Polynesia - 27/05/09

Position 16 degrees 03S, 145 degrees 37 W.
Managed to coax the anchor chain from the reefs and rocks and set sail the 108 miles to Fakarava. Surprisingly we got wind contrary to the forecast, but the wind was on the nose (right in front of us), anyway we'll take any wind we can these days, so we sailed heeled over upwind last night, and arrived this morning.
We are one of 11 boats. It's a lot bigger the more commercialised than Makemo. Its lovely clear water, swaying palm trees etc. A huge manta ray swam past the boat earlier.
We are taking the bikes ashore later to cycle along the Atoll, check out the few small hotels and dive shops. Waiting for wind to sait to Tahiti.

Still in Makemo - 24/05/09.

Position 16 degrees 26S, 143 degrees 56W.
We left the north eastern anchorage yesterday heading for Fakarava, but the wind was very light so we sailed slowly along the outside of the reef, then timed our entry into the north western pass of Makemo, and anchored here. There is no village here so its extremely quiet, tranquil and very beautiful. It was difficult to find a spot to anchor as the light was fading and there were huge rocks and reefs everywhere, we think we found a patch of sand to bury the anchor...........let's hope we don't get the chain wrapped around a coral head (happens a lot here!).

Makemo Atoll Tuamoto Archipeligo, 22/05/09.

Position 16 degrees 37S, 143 degrees 34W.
Now anchored in the lagoon in beautiful Makemo.
We've been here a few days now, and are the only visitors on the Atoll.
We have met lots of local people, and are loving the place. Its really picturesque, and hard to believe it has all been built on a small piece of reef sticking out of the huge ocean.
A couple of days ago there was an Argentinian boat in here too; they had wrapped their anchor rope around the prop and ripped out the gear box from their engine. The locals fixed everything for them, and they would not take any money. The sailors gave them some booze, and they accepted that!
We traded some rum with a local man for some lovely black pearls.
Been cycling around the town and out along the reef.
Went to church this morning and were overwhelmed by the beauty of the singing, it really was worthwhile, and fascinating too. Interestingly they do most of the service in the Polynesian language, not French.
Moving to Fakarava Atoll tomorrow.

Lagoon Makemo Atoll Tuomotos

Position 16 degrees 37S, 143 degrees 34W,
Anchored inside the lagoon Makemo Atoll Tuomotos.
Managed to sail all night and reach the entrance to the atoll at the right time. It's an incredible sight when you see the atoll. Its just a huge circle of reefs sticking out of the very deep ocean, easy to miss, and easy to hit!!! This atoll is actually 40 miles long via 10 miloes wide.
The pass was easy and well marked; it reminds us of transiting the passes between the islands in the Bahamas. Same scenery too. Inside the lagoon the water is a myriad of turquoise colours dependent on depth, in stark contrast to the very deep dark water outside the lagoon; the land is low and fringed with Palm trees. Will go ashore soon to search for pearls!!

Blog Control Clitheroe - Jackie's Mum

Update 18/05/09

Position 15 degrees 24S, 143 degrees 05W - day 3.
Distance from Tahoie Bay Nuka Hiva Marquesas-420 nm
Distance to Makemo Atoll Tuomoto Archipeligo-68nm.
Distance is last 24 hours - 132 miles.
All is well; the wind has been better than we thought - we had to motor a bit yesterday, but romping along now. Very squally and thunderstorms on the horizon every afternoon, so we steer around them.
Should be at the pass into the lagoon tomorrow early am. You can only enter the pass at slack tide so we think we have it worked out OK. If you try and enter when the tide is coming out it pushes you out and you can't motor against the 8 knot current. If trying to enter as tide coming in current picks you up and pushes you in, and you may not be able to steer where you need to go, just being pushed around like a floating cork. so timing is everything. The reason for all this is the vast quantities of water from a huge ocean being squeezed through a small gap in the coral reef. That's basically what the atolls are, they have no middle, just a fringe of coral and a lagoon of water in the centre. Anyway they used to call this group the "Dangerous Archipeligo", prior to GPS, as the atolls are so flat you can't see them until too late sometimes, and without a GPS it must have been extremely nerve wrecki ng. So hats off to all the old salts who used to navigate with sextants....yes you Larry Duke!!!

Finally we leave the Marquesas - Thursday May 14th.

Position 12 degrees 21 S, 141 degrees 41W - day 2.
Distance from Tahoie Bay Nuka Hiva Marquesas-280
Distance to Makemo Atoll Tuomoto Archipeligo-215
Distance is last 24 hours - 130 miles.
We pulled out of Nuka Hiva after 6 weeks. It was hard to leave what with shipwrecked sailors (still missing by the way). No wind, then we met up with some Brit, Kiwi and Aussie sailors we know from Panama, so it was fun and frolics with them. We all hired a 4X4 truck and explored the island, and topped it off with a big feast at a beach restaurant.
So far we've sailed, and are hoping the wind will hold for the whole trip. The forecast is for light winds so we'll try our best to sail the whole way.

Ship wreck sailor lost at sea!

Sadly one of the American sailors here is missing, the wreck of his boat was found 15 metres underwater off the south west coast of Nuka Hiva where we are.

Over the last few days we have all been involved in the search for him. His dingy which he uses as a liferaft too, has not been found, so everyone is hoping he is in it or got to land.

The other singlehanded sailors are particularly subdued & can be seen watching the French Navy & Air force divers ,helicopters and boats. Its been 6-7 days now so fingers crossed. 

We intend to leave for the Tuomotos soon, the wind is down at present too, so we are waiting for it to pick up.