Correction from yesterday - the prolific populator from Lancashire was William Marsters, not John, and he lived out here in 1862 onwards.
We are 8 miles offshore, so should be adopted soon by the locals.......eek.
Tuesday, July 28, 2009
Leaving Aitutaki
Position 18 degrees 49 mins S, 160 degrees mins W.
En route from Aitutaki atoll to Palmerston Atoll Cook Islands - 148 miles to go.
Managed to break away from Aitutaki - had been waiting for a storm to pass and the tide to be high enough to leave. 4 boats left today - 2 of us bound for Palmerston.
This next place is quite fascinating. Its a tiny atoll that was populated solely by one man who took 3 wives. The man was John Marsters and was originally from Lancashire England (the county that we are both from). Anyway all the people are his descendants - I think there are about 70 people.
When we arrive we will radio in and one of the owners of the moorings will come out and show us which mooring to take; from then on that family will "adopt" us for our stay. They will show us around and possibly ask us to help them work on something or help in the small hospital. They will also want to trade with us - food, grog, tools etc. They do this to make it fair as this is one of the few ways they can get income. Boy, I bet they hate it when 2 scruffy Brits turn up in a beaten up old boat. I bet they pray for big Catamaran owners!!
En route from Aitutaki atoll to Palmerston Atoll Cook Islands - 148 miles to go.
Managed to break away from Aitutaki - had been waiting for a storm to pass and the tide to be high enough to leave. 4 boats left today - 2 of us bound for Palmerston.
This next place is quite fascinating. Its a tiny atoll that was populated solely by one man who took 3 wives. The man was John Marsters and was originally from Lancashire England (the county that we are both from). Anyway all the people are his descendants - I think there are about 70 people.
When we arrive we will radio in and one of the owners of the moorings will come out and show us which mooring to take; from then on that family will "adopt" us for our stay. They will show us around and possibly ask us to help them work on something or help in the small hospital. They will also want to trade with us - food, grog, tools etc. They do this to make it fair as this is one of the few ways they can get income. Boy, I bet they hate it when 2 scruffy Brits turn up in a beaten up old boat. I bet they pray for big Catamaran owners!!
Monday, July 27, 2009
July 21st Aitutaki
Busy times yesterday - 4 new boats arrived, 3 uneventful, but the 4th made up for that.
We heard a distressed voice on the radio; a boat with engine failure was trying to sail into the anchorage on the ebb tide and against the wind???!!! So we thought that was a novel approach. Before long he was in serious difficulty. We zoomed over in the dinghy as he was sideways in the narrow pass (he was inches off the reef) so we nudged him around so his bow was facing out; the tide and wind pushed him out again.
He then decided to wait for slack low tide, thankfully he has a shallow draft of 4 ft. We tied our dinghy and our neighbour's dinghy on each side of his boat so we were the power and he steered. All went well - we got him right in the anchorage.
Prior to all this we had decided to have a little party, so now we had 4 more boats to invite so we had a record breaking 17 people on board.
Today we are all hunkered down as a squally front passes over us; its cloudy and rainy and there are 2 more boats waiting to come in. This may prove tricky as its quite important to have good sunlight to see through the water so you can avoid the reefs and coral heads.
We've heard from a couple of boats who are at sea, one is having gusts up to 40 knots so fingers crossed it doesn't get worse for him. The South Pacific convergence zone is causing all the mischief, it has intensified the front.
We heard a distressed voice on the radio; a boat with engine failure was trying to sail into the anchorage on the ebb tide and against the wind???!!! So we thought that was a novel approach. Before long he was in serious difficulty. We zoomed over in the dinghy as he was sideways in the narrow pass (he was inches off the reef) so we nudged him around so his bow was facing out; the tide and wind pushed him out again.
He then decided to wait for slack low tide, thankfully he has a shallow draft of 4 ft. We tied our dinghy and our neighbour's dinghy on each side of his boat so we were the power and he steered. All went well - we got him right in the anchorage.
Prior to all this we had decided to have a little party, so now we had 4 more boats to invite so we had a record breaking 17 people on board.
Today we are all hunkered down as a squally front passes over us; its cloudy and rainy and there are 2 more boats waiting to come in. This may prove tricky as its quite important to have good sunlight to see through the water so you can avoid the reefs and coral heads.
We've heard from a couple of boats who are at sea, one is having gusts up to 40 knots so fingers crossed it doesn't get worse for him. The South Pacific convergence zone is causing all the mischief, it has intensified the front.
Monday, July 20, 2009
Aitutaki Cook Islands (19/07/09)
Well we've definitely settled in here, and we may have to stay until next week. Apart from watching the tides, we are keeping a very close eye on the weather.
This area is influenced by the south pacific convergence zone (area where SE tradewinds and equatorial winds meet) so if there is a front, low or high pressure system in the area, it is augmented by the SPCZ and makes the winds and waves more intense. There is a deep low coming off New Zealand so we are watching to make sure it passes before we poke our noses out, but on the other hand we have to leave before the tides get too low!
In the meantime is church for us today - we'll cycle around and pull into the church with the best singing, then off to the beach for lunch and swimming.
This area is influenced by the south pacific convergence zone (area where SE tradewinds and equatorial winds meet) so if there is a front, low or high pressure system in the area, it is augmented by the SPCZ and makes the winds and waves more intense. There is a deep low coming off New Zealand so we are watching to make sure it passes before we poke our noses out, but on the other hand we have to leave before the tides get too low!
In the meantime is church for us today - we'll cycle around and pull into the church with the best singing, then off to the beach for lunch and swimming.
Island Paradise & Anchoring Hell (17/07/09)
Filling our days with swimming in the lagoon and cycling around the island, but all this comes to a grinding halt when a new boat appears on the horizon. Its all hands on deck ready to help them. One of us zooms out of the lagoon through the pass and outside the reef where the waiting boat is nervously consulting tide tables, saying prayers and generally crossing their fingers and toes. We'll plough back into the pass with them clutching a boat hook marked with the depth of their boat and give them a tour of the low spots in the pass; let them see the beast for themselves. Then its the same tour of the anchorage picking out a spot. Yesterday the new boat same through the pass OK, but then whilst anchoring bow and stern, the bow anchor broke free and with the 5 knot current and 20 knot breeze, the boat went sideways into its neighbour, (both inches from a reef). We zoomed over with the dinghy and spent several hours throwing out as many anchors as possible then winching both boats to safety....phew all ended well.
Tonight we go ashore to watch the local fire dancers.
Tonight we go ashore to watch the local fire dancers.
Sunday, July 12, 2009
Aitutaki Southern Cook Islands
Now anchored inside the reef in the beautiful but shallow coral strewn lagoon.
Our entrance through the pass was made possible by two other sailors already in here. We would have really struggled without their help. We couldn't even see where the break in the reef was, where you enter. Yet again we are in awe of the pre GPS sailors. Our sailor chums took Neil in their dinghy for a recce. which was very valuable information.
We set off gingerly through the pass and hit the bottom a couple of times; Neil had to wiggle the rudder back and forth and carve a trence in the sand at one spot (we should charge a dredging fee!). Finally we sprung free and entered the lagoon. We thought the drama was all over but in fact it had only just begun.
Initially we set a bow and stern anchor quite easilyand were happy. We decided to get our snorkel masks on and take a look at the anchors to make sure they were in OK - big mistake. We saw a rock by the bow anchor and moved it....that broke us free of course, so we scrambled on board and had to re-anchor. Our neighbours were anchored very close (as its a small space) but we got a lot closer at one point and they had to push us off with their dinghy whilst we re-anchored. Next we reset the stern anchor, whilst doing this the join in between the chain and rope came apart and the chain sank. Fortunately the front anchor was OK so in the water again to re-connect them underwater. It was only a few feet down, but there is about a 4 knot current sweeping through the anchorage so you are fighting it every time you dive. In the end we fixed everything and flopped on deck in a wet tired heap. One look at the swaying palm trees, blue lagoon and the sign saying Aitutaki Game Fishing Club - cold beer here - sign - and all was well!!
Our entrance through the pass was made possible by two other sailors already in here. We would have really struggled without their help. We couldn't even see where the break in the reef was, where you enter. Yet again we are in awe of the pre GPS sailors. Our sailor chums took Neil in their dinghy for a recce. which was very valuable information.
We set off gingerly through the pass and hit the bottom a couple of times; Neil had to wiggle the rudder back and forth and carve a trence in the sand at one spot (we should charge a dredging fee!). Finally we sprung free and entered the lagoon. We thought the drama was all over but in fact it had only just begun.
Initially we set a bow and stern anchor quite easilyand were happy. We decided to get our snorkel masks on and take a look at the anchors to make sure they were in OK - big mistake. We saw a rock by the bow anchor and moved it....that broke us free of course, so we scrambled on board and had to re-anchor. Our neighbours were anchored very close (as its a small space) but we got a lot closer at one point and they had to push us off with their dinghy whilst we re-anchored. Next we reset the stern anchor, whilst doing this the join in between the chain and rope came apart and the chain sank. Fortunately the front anchor was OK so in the water again to re-connect them underwater. It was only a few feet down, but there is about a 4 knot current sweeping through the anchorage so you are fighting it every time you dive. In the end we fixed everything and flopped on deck in a wet tired heap. One look at the swaying palm trees, blue lagoon and the sign saying Aitutaki Game Fishing Club - cold beer here - sign - and all was well!!
Friday, July 10, 2009
Arrived Aitutaki (10/07/09)
Arrived safely in Aitutaki.
Long story - will update tomorrow with all the thrills and spills.
All well.
Long story - will update tomorrow with all the thrills and spills.
All well.
Wednesday, July 8, 2009
Nearing Aitutaki (08/08/09)
Position 18 degrees 30S, 158 degrees 04W.
Distance from Bora Bora 387 nm.
Distance to Aitutaki 100 nm.
Wind sough 10 - 15 knots.
Sailing 5 knots upwind.
Bumpy rough night with squalls and big seas all night.
Now need to slow the boat down so that we arrive daylight tomorrow morning to go through he pass into the lagoon.
We need to get the tide just right as its very shallow going in, hopefully some people we know will still be there to advise us and help us. The lagoon is VERY small and shallow - we will need to tie the stern off to a tree, and anchor the bow so we don't hardly mo ve at all. Eek!!
Distance from Bora Bora 387 nm.
Distance to Aitutaki 100 nm.
Wind sough 10 - 15 knots.
Sailing 5 knots upwind.
Bumpy rough night with squalls and big seas all night.
Now need to slow the boat down so that we arrive daylight tomorrow morning to go through he pass into the lagoon.
We need to get the tide just right as its very shallow going in, hopefully some people we know will still be there to advise us and help us. The lagoon is VERY small and shallow - we will need to tie the stern off to a tree, and anchor the bow so we don't hardly mo ve at all. Eek!!
Tuesday, July 7, 2009
Continuing onwards (07/07/09)
Position 17 degrees, 56S, 155 degrees 44W,
Wind 5 knots ese.
Distance from Bora Bora 233 nm.
Distance to Aitutaki 254 nm.
Not much wind, working hard to make the boat go, but have a big moon lighting up the sky every night, its like someone shining a big light, it even casts shadows........wonderful.
Wind 5 knots ese.
Distance from Bora Bora 233 nm.
Distance to Aitutaki 254 nm.
Not much wind, working hard to make the boat go, but have a big moon lighting up the sky every night, its like someone shining a big light, it even casts shadows........wonderful.
On towards the Cook Islands (06/07/09)
Bora Bora to Aitutaki Cook Islands.
Position 17 degrees 36S, 154 degrees 11W,
Distance from Bora Bora 144 nm
Distance to Aitutaki 343 nm.
Wind ese 8 knots.
Sailing 4.0 knots.
A bit slow going today, but its better than a white knuckle ride. Getting lots of reading and sewing done.
Position 17 degrees 36S, 154 degrees 11W,
Distance from Bora Bora 144 nm
Distance to Aitutaki 343 nm.
Wind ese 8 knots.
Sailing 4.0 knots.
A bit slow going today, but its better than a white knuckle ride. Getting lots of reading and sewing done.
Monday, July 6, 2009
En Route to Atutaki (05/07/09)
Position 16 degrees 40 S, 152 degrees 04 W.
Distance to Atutaki Southern Cook Islands 470nm.
Distance from Bora Bora 17nm.
Wind ese at 15 knots.
Course 241 degrees true.
All well on board, nice wind so far, but carefully watching the skies for squalls. The South Pacific convergence zone is very active around here and squalls can pack a punch up to 30-40 knots of wind.
Distance to Atutaki Southern Cook Islands 470nm.
Distance from Bora Bora 17nm.
Wind ese at 15 knots.
Course 241 degrees true.
All well on board, nice wind so far, but carefully watching the skies for squalls. The South Pacific convergence zone is very active around here and squalls can pack a punch up to 30-40 knots of wind.
Friday, July 3, 2009
Fun & frolics in Bora Bora
It shouldn't be allowed.............the Brits & the Aussies together in the Yacht club!
We've been led astray by some very bad Aussies, they are teaching us bad ways and getting us a bad name for being VERY NOISY.
We'll try & upload some of the tamer photos.
Apart from that we've been busy exploring the island. Its been very windy & rainy on some days, but we've braved the weather, and seen the sights.
Off to Atutaki Atoll in the Cook islands on Sunday, weather permitting.
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