Leaving tonight from Ha'appi group to go to the most southerly group of Tonga, the Tongatapu group. We will head for Nuku'alofa which is the capital and, hopefully, find a place to tie up on the wharf whilst we explore the King's Palace, the town and the local markets etc.
On this trip we will have to pass the area where the ferry sank a few weeks ago. They still have not found all the bodies, so we are desperately hoping we don't find any floating past us.
There are a lot of whales in this area too, so no doube we'll see a few tonight. Let's hope they are all awake and paying attention, we certainly will be looking for them. We have a good moon, so we should be OK.
Sunday, August 30, 2009
Friday, August 28, 2009
Lifuka island Ha'appi group Tonga
Now moving south through Tonga. Had a good time in Vava'u. Went to two Kava drinking ceremonies (noxious slightly druglike drink made from ground Kava roots. Its all the rage in Tonga and Fiji but it tastes and looks like muddy water!).
Also went to a Tongan feast on a beach, very tasty. Also had children dancing Tongan style and good Ukelele music too.
On our way from Vava'u to Ha'appi we saw loads of whales, some breeching, others just flapping their tails. As we were approaching the first anchor spot three whales were dead ahead. We stared with awe, which then turned to dread when they didn't move. Neil grabbed the wheel, disengaged the auto-pilot and we swerved out of the way, then he saw the depth sounder read 104 feet as one dived down beneath us. Fortunately it swam away and did not re-surface with us perched on it's back!!
The weather is better now tradewinds are back and the clouds have cleared.
The islands in this group are very small, poorly charted, have beautiful sandy beaches, lots of coral and fish on the reefs. The Tongan people are very reserved but pleasant. They are very religious and dress very conservatively. They wear strange rush/straw mats around their waists. They look like they have picked up the kitchen mat the tied it around their middle. They seem bulky, hot and not very flattering. Most people wear black long skirts, the men too, the clothes seem interchangeable between men and women. We have some pictures so, hopefully, we can publish them when in Nuku'alofa (then most southerly group) - we should be there next week.
Off to the village to buy some potatoes to put on our beach bonfire we are having along with another boat tonight. They said they had ordered a full PIG to cook!!!! Not sure if they are joking......if it turns up I hope its gutted - we should be really full after a full pig between 6 of us!
Also went to a Tongan feast on a beach, very tasty. Also had children dancing Tongan style and good Ukelele music too.
On our way from Vava'u to Ha'appi we saw loads of whales, some breeching, others just flapping their tails. As we were approaching the first anchor spot three whales were dead ahead. We stared with awe, which then turned to dread when they didn't move. Neil grabbed the wheel, disengaged the auto-pilot and we swerved out of the way, then he saw the depth sounder read 104 feet as one dived down beneath us. Fortunately it swam away and did not re-surface with us perched on it's back!!
The weather is better now tradewinds are back and the clouds have cleared.
The islands in this group are very small, poorly charted, have beautiful sandy beaches, lots of coral and fish on the reefs. The Tongan people are very reserved but pleasant. They are very religious and dress very conservatively. They wear strange rush/straw mats around their waists. They look like they have picked up the kitchen mat the tied it around their middle. They seem bulky, hot and not very flattering. Most people wear black long skirts, the men too, the clothes seem interchangeable between men and women. We have some pictures so, hopefully, we can publish them when in Nuku'alofa (then most southerly group) - we should be there next week.
Off to the village to buy some potatoes to put on our beach bonfire we are having along with another boat tonight. They said they had ordered a full PIG to cook!!!! Not sure if they are joking......if it turns up I hope its gutted - we should be really full after a full pig between 6 of us!
Friday, August 21, 2009
Sunny Days in Tonga
Now the sun has decided to come out from behind the clouds, we've been busy with boat jobs; retensioned the rigging, resewed a broken sail slide currently trying to splice an eyelet in a halyard (like croquet with ropes).......Shiver me timbers we might make mariners yet; we'll probably have everything up to snuff just as we pull into Auckland!!
Anchored in Port Maurelle Bay just south of Neiafu, crystal clear water and sandy beaches just off boat. Will swim over when splicing job complete (as a reward) then a nice rum drink. We have too much cheap Panamanian rum left and are dishing it out to all and sundry who pass by. We have to declare the grog in Fiji, and we hear they take a dim view to hiding it, so we don't want to pay duty or a fine on the stuff, so its drink it, give it away and trade for fish and lobsters, before we leave Tonga.
Anchored in Port Maurelle Bay just south of Neiafu, crystal clear water and sandy beaches just off boat. Will swim over when splicing job complete (as a reward) then a nice rum drink. We have too much cheap Panamanian rum left and are dishing it out to all and sundry who pass by. We have to declare the grog in Fiji, and we hear they take a dim view to hiding it, so we don't want to pay duty or a fine on the stuff, so its drink it, give it away and trade for fish and lobsters, before we leave Tonga.
Wednesday, August 19, 2009
Soggy in Tonga (18/08/09)
Still exploring Neiafu, but in between rain showers, been on a bike ride and hike, but too cloudy and chilly for in water activities.
Leaving tomorrow for exploration of the other Vavau anchorages.
Hopefully some kayaking and swimming.
Leaving tomorrow for exploration of the other Vavau anchorages.
Hopefully some kayaking and swimming.
Friday, August 14, 2009
Neiafu Vavau Group Tonga August 12th 2009
Arrived minutes ago after a bumpy but OK trip from Niue. Left Niue Sunday afternoon - arrived Tonga Wednesday morning after a 2 day trip?? Lost a day due to crossing the International Dateline.
Now hooked on a mooring in the harbour - will snooze then check in and explore.
Now hooked on a mooring in the harbour - will snooze then check in and explore.
Saturday, August 8, 2009
Niue island
We are sat on board getting ready to leave Niue tomorrow ( weather permitting), and we are overwhelmed by the Whales singing outside, they are so close to the boat, singing and splashing its truly incredible.
We went outside a while ago to watch, but its pitch dark, maybe later when the moon comes up we'll get another amazing show.
Off to Tonga tomorrow, we'll probably see a lot of Whales on the way there, as we hear from friends over there its full of Whales too, hopefully they are all awake and we don't crash into any sleeping ones.
We never tire of seeing the wild animals, you find yourself watching them, then realising you have a big smile on your face!
Anchored in Aitutkai lagoon.
Local Rugby match Aitutkai, final game of season, lots of violence on the pitch!
Beach, Palmeston atoll.
Our hosts in Palmeston, Tere, Yvonne & Shekinah Marsters.
Shekinah throwing the anchor in the lagoon to secure their boat.
Local children we met on Palmeston Atoll.
Dinghy hoist Niue harbour, very handy with big swell in bay.
One of the many rock pools/caves on Niue.
SOME PHOTOS
LAZY AFTERNOON IN HAMMOCKS AITUTAKI.
RUB A DUB DUB 17 " MEN" IN A TUB.........BIGGEST CROWD ON BOARD TO DATE
LAGOON AITUTAKI COOK ISLANDS
Friday, August 7, 2009
Sight Seeing around Niue ( 05/08/09)
Yesterday our pals off "Coromandel Quest" radioed us in the morning telling us they had hired a car, and would we like to join them for a spin around the island........yes please was the cry.
We set off on a clockwise route stopping at all the sights. Mostly its caves that have been formed out of the limestone rock by the pounding sea. The island is just a huge solid lump of rock, and we think that is why the water is so incredibly clear, as there is no sediment from the land in the water. So we spent hours clambering over great lumps of old coral, wading through rock pools, and clinging onto slippery stalagtites and stalagmites.
The islanders are nowhere near as affluent as French Polynesia or the Cook Islands. This is because they are an indepentant nation with no colonial aid - they depend on New Zealand for defense but that is all. A lot of young people leave and go to New Zealand as there is more work, also there was a huge hurricane here in 2004 that really damaged a lot of the island, and the buildings are still here all broken and very hazardous if there was another big storm.
Anyway they seem a happy lot, the older people in particular are very jovial and friendly.
Today we plan to go snorkelling with the whales - we are hoping to see humpback and sperm whales.
We set off on a clockwise route stopping at all the sights. Mostly its caves that have been formed out of the limestone rock by the pounding sea. The island is just a huge solid lump of rock, and we think that is why the water is so incredibly clear, as there is no sediment from the land in the water. So we spent hours clambering over great lumps of old coral, wading through rock pools, and clinging onto slippery stalagtites and stalagmites.
The islanders are nowhere near as affluent as French Polynesia or the Cook Islands. This is because they are an indepentant nation with no colonial aid - they depend on New Zealand for defense but that is all. A lot of young people leave and go to New Zealand as there is more work, also there was a huge hurricane here in 2004 that really damaged a lot of the island, and the buildings are still here all broken and very hazardous if there was another big storm.
Anyway they seem a happy lot, the older people in particular are very jovial and friendly.
Today we plan to go snorkelling with the whales - we are hoping to see humpback and sperm whales.
Wednesday, August 5, 2009
Niue Island (3rd August 2009)
Arrived offshore south of Niue 11 pm Saturday night so hove to (stall sails and stop forward motion) and waited for daylight to sail in. Once daylight came it was raining so hard we could barely see the island - it was lashing down. Gave the boat a good wash though!!
We are attached to moorings provided by the yachy club. The seabed here is solid rock, so anchoring very difficult.
The sea is crystal clear and visibility is about 40 metres!! There are a lot of whales and calves around, also seasnakes (harmless so they say!). Met up with a lot of our sailing chums already here and had a nice BBQ at the yachy club.
Niue is a huge flat rock jutting out of the sea, it is sheer as you approach so no beaches etc. to land dingies, so there is a big mechanical hoist to pull them out. There is a big hook off the end of the hoist left dangling over the water - you attach this to your 3 point harness, jump out, then work the hoist and pull the arm over the land. When the dingy is in the air, then lower onto a little truck to move the dingy into a parking space on the wharf. If you look up www.niueyachtclub.com there is probably a photo.
We are attached to moorings provided by the yachy club. The seabed here is solid rock, so anchoring very difficult.
The sea is crystal clear and visibility is about 40 metres!! There are a lot of whales and calves around, also seasnakes (harmless so they say!). Met up with a lot of our sailing chums already here and had a nice BBQ at the yachy club.
Niue is a huge flat rock jutting out of the sea, it is sheer as you approach so no beaches etc. to land dingies, so there is a big mechanical hoist to pull them out. There is a big hook off the end of the hoist left dangling over the water - you attach this to your 3 point harness, jump out, then work the hoist and pull the arm over the land. When the dingy is in the air, then lower onto a little truck to move the dingy into a parking space on the wharf. If you look up www.niueyachtclub.com there is probably a photo.
Sunday, August 2, 2009
Palmeston Island
Position 18 degrees 39S, 165 degrees 55W. 224 miles to Niue.
Still having good strong winds 20+ knots on the beam, so all well,we are romping along.
Back to our experience on Palmeston. We arrived the same day as the diesel delivery and the fish pickup, so it was a busy day for the island. We didn't get ashore until the next day as the swell in the pass was too high after they had finished with the big boat.
It's a very labour intensive operation, as the big boat can't get through any passes and has to be worked outside in the big swell, and deliveries taken on to the beach - there is no harbour.
Our hosts eventually picked us up at 11.00 hrs. Prior to this we were like little kids in an orphanage, with faces pressed to the window waiting to be claimed!
Once claimed we were taken onto the only inhabited island (Palmeston Island) the other motos are for holidays, wood, food collection.
After meeting almost all the 62 residents (30 of them children) we had lunch in the thatch house of our hosts, Tere & Yvonne; we had lovely lamb chops, sausage, rice potatoes, coleslaw followed by jelly and ice cream.
The island holds the title for the most freezers per head of population in the world, and they are everywhere - in thatch huts, in garages and houses etc. They order their food every few months from Rarotonga, and have it shipped in. Also they fill the freezers with fish to sell when the big boat comes.
The day was very interesting and we were shown around by Yvonne, who is the school principle, and Shekinah (age 12) There are still 3 parts of the family descended from one father and 3 mothers. Unfortunately there is a lot of politics between the 3 clans, which is sad. We were surprised to see most tools and equipment locked up, which is very sad on a 1/2 mile by 1/2 mile island hundreds of miles from its neighbours.
The school was interesting and the level of education very high. Healthwise there is a nurse who runs the clinic, and a Dr. comes very infrequently - most times a passing yachtie Dr. runs a clinic, and the dentist comes about once every 5 years. There is no airport or helicopter available, and if someone needed the hospital it would take 48 hours for the boat from Rarotonga to reach them (they would send a Dr. & nurse) then 48 hours to get back.
We did notice how healthy everyone looked, and the graves on the islands all contain old people.
Anyway we were happy to be adopted for the short time we were there, but still like our original families.
Still having good strong winds 20+ knots on the beam, so all well,we are romping along.
Back to our experience on Palmeston. We arrived the same day as the diesel delivery and the fish pickup, so it was a busy day for the island. We didn't get ashore until the next day as the swell in the pass was too high after they had finished with the big boat.
It's a very labour intensive operation, as the big boat can't get through any passes and has to be worked outside in the big swell, and deliveries taken on to the beach - there is no harbour.
Our hosts eventually picked us up at 11.00 hrs. Prior to this we were like little kids in an orphanage, with faces pressed to the window waiting to be claimed!
Once claimed we were taken onto the only inhabited island (Palmeston Island) the other motos are for holidays, wood, food collection.
After meeting almost all the 62 residents (30 of them children) we had lunch in the thatch house of our hosts, Tere & Yvonne; we had lovely lamb chops, sausage, rice potatoes, coleslaw followed by jelly and ice cream.
The island holds the title for the most freezers per head of population in the world, and they are everywhere - in thatch huts, in garages and houses etc. They order their food every few months from Rarotonga, and have it shipped in. Also they fill the freezers with fish to sell when the big boat comes.
The day was very interesting and we were shown around by Yvonne, who is the school principle, and Shekinah (age 12) There are still 3 parts of the family descended from one father and 3 mothers. Unfortunately there is a lot of politics between the 3 clans, which is sad. We were surprised to see most tools and equipment locked up, which is very sad on a 1/2 mile by 1/2 mile island hundreds of miles from its neighbours.
The school was interesting and the level of education very high. Healthwise there is a nurse who runs the clinic, and a Dr. comes very infrequently - most times a passing yachtie Dr. runs a clinic, and the dentist comes about once every 5 years. There is no airport or helicopter available, and if someone needed the hospital it would take 48 hours for the boat from Rarotonga to reach them (they would send a Dr. & nurse) then 48 hours to get back.
We did notice how healthy everyone looked, and the graves on the islands all contain old people.
Anyway we were happy to be adopted for the short time we were there, but still like our original families.
Saturday, August 1, 2009
Palmerston Atoll to Niue Island (30/07/09)
Position 18 degrees 09 south, 163 degrees 38 west.
On passage from Palmerston Atoll to Niue Island, 360 miles to go.
Lefgt Palmerston this morning; been sailing in 15 - 20 knots on the beam all morning. Fingers crossed it stays like this.
Palmerston was fascinating and enjoyable; more on that later as it is a bit bouncy to write too much.
Next stop Niue (pronounced newey).
All well on board.
On passage from Palmerston Atoll to Niue Island, 360 miles to go.
Lefgt Palmerston this morning; been sailing in 15 - 20 knots on the beam all morning. Fingers crossed it stays like this.
Palmerston was fascinating and enjoyable; more on that later as it is a bit bouncy to write too much.
Next stop Niue (pronounced newey).
All well on board.
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