Wednesday, December 3, 2008

We made it out of Mexico and past "the BEAST of Tehuanatepec

We are so happy to be here, and in one piece, after
crossing one of the most hazardous areas on this coast.
The reason it is so risky is that the Gulf is
influenced by winds from the other side of Mexico,
and when the weather is bad on that side gale
force winds funnel through the mountains, and
people can be blown up to 500 miles out to sea!
We had been watching the weather very closely
because it blows almost constantly, with short
lulls. We spied a good "weather window"on the
forecast and scrambled, literally running around
dragging big jugs of fuel, water and food on board.
All sails up and engine roaring we set off to face the
beast and hooray it was napping, we sneaked by
heads stuck over the siderails, noses into the
wind like two bloodhounds sniffing the breeze to
detect a shift to the north which would mean the
beast was stirring.
We chugged along merrily for 500 miles, loving
every minute of the passage. Some of our boat
pals weren't so lucky, one boat who set off before
had 65 mile an hour winds, and had to scramble
into a commercial port at night, and take shelter
amongst the rusty shrimp boats. Another who left
a couple of days later , was hit by high winds
because his engine was broken, and he turned
into a sitting duck!
So now we are moored 9 miles up a river in
El Salvador, the closest town is Usulatan which
we visited yesterday. It was splendid! They call
El Salvador, Nicaragua, and Honduras the
forgotten middle of Central America. It really
feels different to Mexico, the people are not as
used to tourists, so we are made very welcome.
There is great povery here, endless civil war,
hurricanes etc have pounded the place, but the
people are cheery and friendly. We are planning
to leave our boat in the river, drive or bus it to
Guatemala, and Honduras to explore inland,
just trying to work out the logistics now.


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